Natural Retinol Alternative Bakuchiol for Skin
In my previous article all about Rosehip Oil Skin Benefits, I touched upon the vitamin A content of rosehip oil. I acknowledged that, although some natural skincare enthusiasts claim rosehip oil to be somewhat of a natural alternative to retinol (a form of vitamin A), this is simply not the case. Retinol is extremely efficacious and extremely potent. So much so, that percentages of the ingredient must be clearly labelled. Many retinoids are so strong that they are only available via medical prescription. Certain individuals do worry about retinol toxicity because of this and search for more natural alternatives. This article is all about the natural retinol alternative bakuchiol.
What does retinol do?
Retinol is characterised by its astounding anti-ageing properties. It decreases depth of wrinkles and lines, smooths the skin’s surface, increases skin firmness, and evens out skin tone. It has been scientifically proven and extensively researched for years because of its ability to visibly turn the clock back in time. For this reason, it is one of the most revered skincare ingredients in the anti-ageing sphere.
There is one caveat: not everyone can tolerate retinol. It causes skin sensitivity, flaking, dryness, redness, irritation and makes you more susceptible to sun damage. Because the ingredient is so potent, many people experience some alarmingly adverse reactions to it.
The reason people are attempting to associate ingredients like rosehip oil with retinol is because of the vitamin A content. As I mentioned in my post about rosehip oil, the vitamin A present in rosehip oil is different from retinol. Rosehip oil contains beta carotene, a precursor to vitamin A. Retinol, on the other hand, naturally occurs in animal sources such as dairy, meat, eggs, fish and poultry. And so, they behave in the body somewhat differently.
While beta carotene can convert to vitamin A in skin, it is not entirely that simple. This means that just because they both contain vitamin A, it is not necessarily accurate to group together certain skincare products as having the same efficacy. The source of vitamin A is also important. They may both function through different pathways.
The only clinically-proven natural retinol alternative
Enter Bakuchiol. This compound is a plant extract and antioxidant. It is found in the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. This plant has traditionally been used in Aurvedic and Chinese medicine to treat diseases of the skin. It bears no structural resemblance to retinol. Rather, it displays retinol-like functionality when applied to skin. And while retinol can make your face burn and peel off if you are not careful, bakuchiol does not show any of this irritation.
There is a constant search to find ingredients that match up to retinol and are less sensitising but still effective. Thus far, bakuchiol is the only botanical extract to clinically prove its viability at such a feat. According to a 2014 study, the twice a day application of bakuchiol was shown to exhibit anti-ageing effects on skin. After 12 weeks, there was a significant improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation lessened, skin elasticity and firmness improved, and even photo-damage reduced. All this, without the undesirable effects of retinol use on skin.
The way in which retinol displays such remarkable anti-ageing effects on skin is through its interaction with specific receptors in the nucleus of the cell. This is turn will increase the production of collagen and blocks inflammatory mediators. In other words, retinol communicates with cells and tells them to do their job better and behave in a younger manner. The way in which bakuchiol delivers results is through the regulation of gene expression. It too will upregulate and stimulate collagen production. The pathways through which both compounds work is similar, however bakuchiol does not seem to induce the same level of irritation.
Can it help acne like retinol?
Besides its powerful anti-ageing properties, retinol also has acne fighting effects. Retinoids act as a comedolytic agent to keep pores clear and prevent breakouts. There are many varieties of retinoids that professionals successfully prescribe for the treatment of acne. Adapalene, tretinoin and tazarotene are a few such retinoids that acne patients require prescriptions to obtain. So how does bakuchiol match up to this?
Bakuchiol has not been as comprehensively researched in the treatment of acne as retinol has. However there have been studies to suggest it may play a role in acne treatment. Bakuchiol has strong antibacterial and antioxidant effects. In a pilot clinical study, 1% bakuchiol was shown to reduce acne by about 57%. By comparison, salicylic acid only reduced acne by 48%. You may recall salicylic acid effects on acne from my complete guide to salicylic acid. The combination was shown to reduce acne and inflammation by 70%.
Retinol and irritation
Retinoids are a very commonly irritating ingredient. People try to push through the adverse side effects in the hope of reaping its extraordinary promises of anti-ageing and acne prevention. However, as I emphasise in each and every post, we are all different. We each have individual needs and tolerances. While retinol may work wonders for someone else’s skin, this may not be the case with you.
Typically, your skin takes a few weeks to acclimate to retinol. When I first began using retinoids, my skin was extremely irritated. It felt as though my face was perpetually sunburned, my skin was peeling at a mere touch, and always looked dry. After some time, your skin will acclimate to the dosage and you will no longer get those negative side effects.
It may also be worth experimenting with different types of retinoids as you may experience terrible reactions from some and you may be fine with others. I have found certain retinol products have been so strong they have triggered the worst flare ups of acne I have ever experienced. Others improve the condition of my skin. It is extremely individual and up to you to judge for yourself.
Who should use bakuchiol?
You may find retinol products irritate your skin to no end. Instead of trying to push through the pain, your skin may simply be intolerant to retinol. Retinol may not agree with your skin, regardless of the percentage you use or type of derivative. In this case, natural retinol alternative bakuchiol may be the answer to your skincare woes. Many natural skincare advocates will appreciate this ingredient due to its botanical nature. Typically, retinoids available via prescription will contain ingredients and certain preservatives that natural skincare advocates do not like, so bakuchiol is definitely a viable choice.
Because of the minimal irritation in comparison to retinol, anyone will be able to use bakuchiol. If you are pregnant or have any urgent medical conditions, it is always wise to consult with your doctor. As I said, it is not as widely researched as retinol, so you may find you prefer the visible results you see from retinol products. If you are running out of your current retinol, would like a break from retinol, would like to introduce a retinol-like product into your routine, or just love new skincare, it is worth seeing how your skin reacts to it.
Bakuchiol Products Worth Trying
Although it is a relatively new retinol-like skin care discovery, a number of skincare brands are already beginning to incorporate natural retinol alternative bakuchiol into their line.
Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum – This line contains purely non toxic, clean beauty products. Alongside bakuchiol, the serum includes squalane and sodium hyaluronate for hydration. It also contains a good dose of niacinamide which will also help to visibly reduce pore size, keep skin clear and even out skin tone.
Ole Henriksen Glow Cycle Serum – This serum is very lightweight and brightening. It contains AHAs to improve skin texture and for additional anti-ageing benefits. The lavender tint also helps to combat dullness by colour correcting skin tone.
Ole Henriksen Goodnight Glow Retin-ALT Creme – For those with drier skin types, you may prefer a more hydrating, thicker cream to a serum. This product is just that. The AHAs will provide overnight exfoliation. For more on chemical exfoliants read this. The inclusion of shea butter ensures that your skin does not become dehydrated overnight. It contains the lavender tint to brighten skin.
Whish Recovering Night Cream
Ren Clean Skincare Bio Retinoid – This anti-ageing cream contains bakuchiol alongside a number of plant extracts. The brand is a more natural line so all products do not contain parabens, formaldehyde and other potentially carcinogenic ingredients.
If you are feeling fancy
Lancer Advanced Retinol Treatment – Dr Lancer has included both retinol and buckachiol in this powerful anti-ageing formula. The product also contains a number of antioxidants and hydrolysed collagen. Lancer is a higher price point, but the line does not disappoint when it comes to effective products.
Oskia Super 16 Serum – This serum is hydrating and contains a number of antioxidants to further provide anti-ageing benefits alongside bakuchiol. It does also contain retinol palmitate, another vitamin A derivative.
Omorovicza Miracle Oil – Omorovicza is a brand that by no means skimps on luxury. This product contains a blend of some of my favourite oils such as almond and sea buckthorn oil, and additional antioxidants.
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I hope that this post helps to shed some light on the natural retinol alternative bakuchiol. It is a great, gentle option if you are new to retinol or find it does not suit your skin. Perhaps you need a break from retinol and want something that still gives excellent results.
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I have a number of articles on the topic of anti-ageing skincare. For more on anti-ageing take a look at these posts:
All about Vitamin C For Anti-ageing
The Complete Guide to Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare
The Crucial Role of Antioxidants
The Best Korean Skincare Brands You Simply Must Try
Share this post with someone you care about because we all deserve to love the skin we are in. If anything, I’d appreciate the show of support for the simple fact that I wrote this entire article, lost it, then had to re-write it entirely all over again!
Wishing you boundless love, endless light and life without limit,
Shannon xo
This post is not sponsored. All opinions are my own.
References:
Chaudhuri, R. and Bojanowski, K. (2014). Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 36(3), pp.221-230.
Chaudhuri RK, Marchio F. Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine. 2011;126(7):502–510.
2 Comments
thanks! 🙂