Top 5 Skincare Ingredients to Treat Acne

I have struggled with acne to one degree or another for around a decade now. Over time, I grew tired and frustrated of being constantly referred from one professional to another. No one seemed to offer solid advice beyond issuing an antibiotic prescription. For years my skincare regimen consisted of the same predictable prescription tablets and antibacterial face scrub (since banned by the FDA). It wasn’t until I took matters into my own hands, out of desperation and frustration, that I began to see improvements in my skin. It was a painful process but in my own research, I found skincare ingredients to treat acne, and not just cover it up.

After much trial and error over the years, I have narrowed down my top 5 skincare ingredients to treat acne. These are the most effective skincare ingredients to treat acne that I have found, with astounding results. All of these ingredients are topical, and most are available over the counter.

1. Salicylic acid.

I have sung the praises of BHAs in numerous blog posts. As someone who has battled with acne, it is an ingredient I strongly recommend. I will say however, that if you struggle with more severe cystic acne, salicylic acid will likely not be a cure-all. But for people with mild to moderate breakouts, it is certainly a tool you need in your acne kit.

Salicylic acid is the main type of beta hydroxy acid. It is lipophilic (or “oil-loving”), meaning it is solutble in oils and fats. This enables it to penetrate the pore and remove excess sebum. It encourages exfoliation, skin cell turnover and decongests pores. This prevents follicles from becoming clogged with dead skin cells and excess oil. As a derivative of aspirin, it is anti-inflammatory and can calm inflammation caused by breakouts and exfoliation.

If you want more information about salicylic acid, the best products, its properties and uses, I have written an entire blog post about salicylic acid.

I would highly recommend a leave-on salicylic acid exfoliant such as this 2% BHA solution. It is one of my favourite salicylic acid products and makes a huge difference. You will wake up with radiant skin and clarified pores. 

2. Benzoyl Peroxide.

A blocked pore creates an oxygen free environment. It cultivates the ideal conditions for P Acnes bacteria to grow and thrive. Benzoyl peroxide introduces oxygen into the follicle and kills the bacteria causing the breakout. This makes it the perfect spot treatment to get rid of a pimple quickly.

Let me tell you, that if you feel that under-the-skin painful pimple threatening to surface, benzoyl peroxide works wonders. Oftentimes, when I feel a breakout coming on, just dabbing a little 5% BPO onto the area will do the trick. Even if you just want your pimple to clear more quickly, benzoyl peroxide will help that process. It will dry out your skin though, so make sure you keep the surrounding area moisturised. This prevents dry flaky areas of skin.

3. Azelaic Acid.

This is one of my favourite skincare ingredients to treat acne. It is the most underrated skincare ingredient when it comes to breakouts. You often hear about salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide for acne. But no one ever seems to give azelaic acid the necessary praise it deserves. Azelaic acid is conventionally used as a treatment for rosacea, and it is great for doing so. However, I have found from my own experience that it is a game changer when it comes to treating acne.

As an antibacterial agent, azelaic acid reduces the growth of bacteria in the follicle. It decreases inflammation and helps loosen the build-up of dead skin cells and oil. It is keratolytic and comedolytic, meaning it inhibits the formation of comedones by reducing the growth of keratin surface skin cells that pores and sebaceous glands.

The beauty of this ingredient is that, if you do struggle with redness and rosacea, you will see your skin greatly managed and more even. You will no longer wake up with a face that looks red and irritated, and there will be less inflammation overall to your skin. Unlike benzoyl peroxide, it will not cause excessively dry skin either. It’s a win all-round!

This azelaic acid suspension is inexpensive and highly effective. However, I do find that it does not last an awfully long time. For a more sophisticated formula, this azelaic acid + BHA treatment works wonders for breakouts, enlarged pores and blackheads. It has the added benefit of targeting dark spots and brightening the complexion.

4. Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, niacinamide has an anti-inflammatory effect. As inflammation causes oxidative damage to sebum, it leads to pimples. Applying niacinamide topically can reduce inflammation and decrease the likelihood of a blemish forming. It can also reduce moisture loss and regulate oil flow for those with excessively oily skin.

I have spoken about the benefits of niacinamide in my how to get rid of blackheads post and several other posts. This ingredient is one of my absolute favourite all-round skin restoring and protecting ingredients. While it is one of the best skincare ingredients to treat acne, it is also effective at balancing oily skin and and maintaining skin health. Whether my skin is behaving particularly well or I am experiencing an increase in blemishes, I try to incorporate this ingredient into my daily routine.

Effaclar Duo contains both niacinamide and salicylic acid to work double duty at battling breakouts. For an even greater boost of niacinamide, the 10% Niacinamide Booster contains a hefty dose of niacinamide along with vitamin C to help brighten any pesky post-acne marks.

5. Retinoic acid.

These are vitamin A derivatives. Aside from their anti-ageing benefits, they are gold standard skincare ingredients to treat acne with. There are several different options, from over the counter retinol, tretinoin, differin, tazarotene. Retinoids have hormone-like chemical messengers that bind to receptors in the cell. This alters the way cells behave. They promote cellular turnover of dead skin cells, making it harder for oil to clog pores. Thus, they keep sebaceous follicles free of comedones. Retinoids reduce oil production and also reduce acne associated inflammation.

While many retinol can work for combatting acne, Differin (or adapalene), was specifically formulated for acne treatment. This retinoid can be obtained by prescription in the UK and is readily available over the counter in the US.

Retinoids do sensitise skin so I would recommend slowly introducing them into your routine. In my previous post about Fall Skin Care Tips, I suggested reintroducing retinoids back into your routine during the Fall. Now that your sun exposure will likely be reducing over the cooler months, your retinol use can increase without so much sun sensitivity.

Caution: Do not overdo active ingredients

I want to emphasise that you should not overdo these skincare ingredients to treat acne. The active ingredients I have mentioned are effective but very potent. Before you go to happy town smothering every single one of these ingredients on your face at once, I urge you to pause. More is not more when it comes to active skincare ingredients. Piling on a number of strong topicals all at one go may not only be ineffective, but it may also exasperate your skin condition.

I have fallen into the trap of thinking that if a little is good, then more must be better. I bombarded my face with salicylic acid twice a day, along with retinoids daily, benzoyl peroxide on every inch of my face and so on. Not only did my acne not subside, but it only seemed to be getting worse no matter what I did.

Often acne arises as a result of excess inflammation showing up on your face. I would not recommend using such powerful ingredients all at one time due to the increased risk of irritation. In individuals with darker skin, this irritation can increase the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. In a future post I will be explaining how best you can safely and effectively use these ingredients and how best to incorporate them into your routine.

You can get your acne under control

I know how frustrating breakouts and acne can be. Trust me, I’ve been there. Even to this day, when I am pushing 22 years old, I experience breakouts. The truth is, acne is a multi-faceted skin condition with multiple causes and types. It does not necessarily have much to do with a numerical age.

Many times, people who have not experienced acne try to console you by saying you will grow out of it. As if one can snap their fingers when the clock strikes 12 on their 18^thbirthday and suddenly the clouds part and your skin clears. Unfortunately, that is not quite how it works.

With the proper treatments and skincare routine, you can keep your breakouts under control. While we can’t control hormonal or dysbiosis-related breakouts with skincare products alone, proper skincare will unquestionably make a difference.

In the future I will be doing more posts on how to manage hormonal and other types of breakouts too so remember to Subscribe for when I release those articles. 

For more skin care advice:

How to get rid of blackheads for good

Essential Skin Care and Makeup Tips for Oily Skin

The Complete Guide to Salicylic Acid Skincare

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. Unauthorised use and/or duplication of this material is strictly prohibited.

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Unusual Korean Skincare Ingredients You Need to Know About

It is about time I added another instalment to my series on Asian Skin Care. In my previous article about Top Korean Skincare Products, I introduced a few of my favourite K-beauty brands and some of their star products. Korean beauty is notorious for its highly innovative formulas and cutting-edge ingredients. In this post, I will be introducing a few interesting Korean Skincare Ingredients you need to know about. Some of these Korean skincare ingredients are a little unusual, but they are all worth keeping an eye out for, next time you are shopping K-beauty.

Snail Secretion Filtrate

What it is:

This is perhaps one of the most infamous Korean skincare ingredients. And it is exactly what it sounds like: snail slime produced by edible snails. (Fancy some escargot, anyone?)

Because South Korea now bans the testing of beauty products on animals, the harvesting snails is done with this in mind. Therefore, a number of quality K-beauty brand harvest their snail mucin as “gently” as possible. This is done in an attempt to apply as little external stress as possible to the snails.

Snails are left to roam around, leaving little trails of slime behind them. Then, once they go back home to chill after their stroll, the snail mucin is collected and processed for cosmetic use.

If snail welfare is a concern for you, I would recommend you do your own research before purchasing from certain brands.

Benefits:

• Some of the key nutrients of snail slime include hyaluronic acid, glycoprotein enzymes, glycolic acid and peptides.
• If you have read my complete guide to hyaluronic acid, by now you would be familiar with all its benefits. It helps keep skin hydrated, provides antioxidant benefits, and assists with wound healing.
• Glycolic acid exfoliates the top layer of skin and helps to diminish dark spots, as explained in my post all about glycolic acid. It will also help boost collagen production, fight blemishes and signs of ageing.
• Glycoproteins and peptides work to reinforce skin’s barrier function. They keep skin smooth and improve the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

What would Korean skincare be without beloved snail secretions?

Shop Snail Secretion Filtrate Skincare

COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence

Oh K! Snail Sheet Mask

24K Golden Snail Hydro Gel Sheet Mask

Aloe BHA Skin Toner with Snail Secretion Filtrate

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

What it is:

Galactomyces is a type of nutrient dense yeast and by-product of the fermentation process.

I am a huge fan of fermented products, both for cosmetic and ingestion because fermentation processes introduce a number of friendly bacteria and probiotics necessary for a healthy microbiome.

Benefits:

• Galactomyces ferment filtrate exhibits powerful antioxidant activity, combatting the reactive oxygen species responsible for premature ageing. Read this article about the importance of antioxidants for skin for more on why you need antioxidants in your routine.
• It also fights against acne-causing bacteria and reduces the number of enlarged pores and blackheads. Therefore it is a great ingredient to use if you struggle with blemishes and enlarged pores.
• Galactomyces is a great moisturising agent. It will thus keep skin hydrated and encourages hyaluronan production in skin cells.
• K-beauty is all about bright, bouncy, clear skin, so it is no wonder that galactomyces is so widely used in Korea. It brightens the complexion and evens skin tone by reducing melanin synthesis in the skin.

Shop Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate Skincare

COSRX Galactomyces Alcohol Free Toner

Galactomyces 95 Tone Balancing Essence

Benton Fermentation Essence

Neogen Agecure 3D Lifting Wrinkle Neck Mask

Volcanic Clay

What it is:

Volcanic clay is one of the more mystical sounding Korean skincare ingredients. It is essentially mineral-rich clay, collected from volcanic areas.

Because clay is relatively alkaline, it should be mixed with a liquid such as apple cider vinegar before being applied to skin.

Benefits:

• Clay is rich in minerals that draw out impurities and remove toxins from the skin. Clay’s detoxifying properties are important for fighting against premature signs of ageing, as the accumulation of toxins will contribute to ageing.
• If you struggle with clogged pores and blackheads, volcanic clay is a godsend for oily skin individuals and people struggling with blackheads. This is due to the fact it absorbs excess sebum, can aid in exfoliation and de-clogs pores.
• Clay is worth considering if you are acne prone. Check out my post on how to get rid of blackheads for more tips on getting rid of blemishes and enlarged pores.
• Due to various antioxidants and its mineral rich profile, it can also help with skin healing.

Shop Volcanic Clay Skincare

Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask

Innisfree Jeju Volcanic Pore Cleansing Foam

The Face Shop Volcanic Lava Pore Scrub Foam

Acne Pore Control Mask

Ginseng:

What it is:

Ginseng is a herb that has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for years. It is an adaptogen herb. Adaptogens essentially help to support hormonal function and your adrenal system. There are many types of ginseng and they each have a multitude of transformative properties.

Benefits:

• Ginseng is a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. Inflammation and overexposure to free radical damage are major contributors to premature ageing. Ginseng helps to quell this inflammation and combat free radical damage.
• Brightens skin. Ginseng is energising and invigorating. Paired with its antioxidant properties, it can help brighten and tighten a dull complexion. There are various eye creams on the market that like to incorporate ginseng for its de-puffing and brightening effect on dark undereye circles.
• Ginseng boosts blood circulation, which encourages a natural glow.
• Ginseng’s antibacterial activity and ability to impede excess oil production make it great for those struggling with oily or acne-prone skin.

Shop Ginseng Skincare

Erborian Ginseng Infusion Total Eye

Erborian BB Creme Eau Ginseng

Missha First Essence Booster

Banila Co Clean It Zero Nourishing

Bee Venom

What it is:

Bee venom, or apitoxin, is essentially the poisonous liquid bees release when they sting. This bee venom contains a number of compounds with potential medicinal applications and skin benefits.

The process of collection of bee venom is both expensive and laborious, which makes this ingredient a hot commodity in the skincare space.

Benefits:

• Bee venom contains a combination of peptides, enzymes and amino acids which all have impressive anti-ageing benefits for skin.
• As an anaphylactic, bee venom has the potential to temporarily relax facial muscles, in a similar way to botox.
• It can help to smooth out wrinkles and improve blood flow to help diminish visible signs of ageing.
• Because the ingredient is merely topical, I wouldn’t say it’s a miracle replacement for actual injections of botulinum toxin into the skin. However, it is worth a try if you have the cash and aren’t too enthused about actual botox injections.

Shop Bee Venom Skincare

Benton Snail Bee Mask

High Content Steam Cream

Propolis

What it is:

Propolis is another bee-related ingredient. It is the substance produced by bees to varnish, protect and keep honeycombs together.

Rich in flavonoids, propolis has extremely impressive antibacterial properties that are crucial in maintaining a sterile environment for the hive.

Propolis can also be taken internally to boost the immune system.

Benefits:

• Propolis provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory protection to aid against environmental aggressors. It can therefore help calm redness from inflammation and post-acne marks.
• The antimicrobial, antibacterial activity of propolis makes it highly favourable for acne-prone skin.
• It also has wound healing properties, helping to smooth out and regenerate skin, while speeding up skin recovery from scars and sunburn.

Shop Propolis Skincare

Skinfood Royal Honey Propolis Essence

Benton Aloe Propolis Soothing Gel

COSRX Propolis Light Ampoule Serum

Leegeeham Grow Vita Propolis Ampoule

Egg Whites

What it is:

Quite literally, the whites of an egg that has had its yolk removed. Egg whites are rich in protein and collagen essential for healthy skin function.

Benefits:

• Tightens skin. The albumin protein is a film forming agent, which will help to firm and tighten skin when applied. As a result, it can aid in firming loose, ageing skin. This can be especially helpful before special occasions when your skin needs a pick-me-up.
• Egg whites may also be beneficial for dealing with acne and oily skin types.
• The tightening action can help reduce the appearance of enlarged pores.

Shop Egg Whites Skincare

Skinfood Egg White Pack

Holika Holika Smooth Egg Skin Egg Soap

Skinfood Egg White Pore Foam

Tony Moly Egg Pore Tightening Cooling Pack

Too Cool For School Egg Cream Pore Tightening Mask

Have you tried any of these Korean skincare ingredients before? What other unusual Korean skincare ingredients have you come across?

Remember to Subscribe to the Blog for more Skin Care and Beauty Articles. I will also give you access to my free skin care essentials checklist when you Subscribe. 

And before you leave, I suggest checking out these posts for more these skin care tips:

Top Korean Skincare Brands You Need To Try

How to Properly Layer Skincare Products

How to Get Rid of Blackheads for good

Skincare Products You Should Only Use At Night

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. All opinions are my own. Unauthorised use and/or duplication of this material is strictly prohibited.

The post Unusual Korean Skincare Ingredients To Know appeared first on Shannon Feetham.

Natural Retinol Alternative Bakuchiol for Skin

In my previous article all about Rosehip Oil Skin Benefits, I touched upon the vitamin A content of rosehip oil. I acknowledged that, although some natural skincare enthusiasts claim rosehip oil to be somewhat of a natural alternative to retinol (a form of vitamin A), this is simply not the case. Retinol is extremely efficacious and extremely potent. So much so, that percentages of the ingredient must be clearly labelled. Many retinoids are so strong that they are only available via medical prescription. Certain individuals do worry about retinol toxicity because of this and search for more natural alternatives. This article is all about the natural retinol alternative bakuchiol.

What does retinol do?

Retinol is characterised by its astounding anti-ageing properties. It decreases depth of wrinkles and lines, smooths the skin’s surface, increases skin firmness, and evens out skin tone. It has been scientifically proven and extensively researched for years because of its ability to visibly turn the clock back in time. For this reason, it is one of the most revered skincare ingredients in the anti-ageing sphere.

There is one caveat: not everyone can tolerate retinol. It causes skin sensitivity, flaking, dryness, redness, irritation and makes you more susceptible to sun damage. Because the ingredient is so potent, many people experience some alarmingly adverse reactions to it.

The reason people are attempting to associate ingredients like rosehip oil with retinol is because of the vitamin A content. As I mentioned in my post about rosehip oil, the vitamin A present in rosehip oil is different from retinol. Rosehip oil contains beta carotene, a precursor to vitamin A. Retinol, on the other hand, naturally occurs in animal sources such as dairy, meat, eggs, fish and poultry. And so, they behave in the body somewhat differently.

While beta carotene can convert to vitamin A in skin, it is not entirely that simple. This means that just because they both contain vitamin A, it is not necessarily accurate to group together certain skincare products as having the same efficacy. The source of vitamin A is also important. They may both function through different pathways.

The only clinically-proven natural retinol alternative

Enter Bakuchiol. This compound is a plant extract and antioxidant. It is found in the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. This plant has traditionally been used in Aurvedic and Chinese medicine to treat diseases of the skin. It bears no structural resemblance to retinol. Rather, it displays retinol-like functionality when applied to skin. And while retinol can make your face burn and peel off if you are not careful, bakuchiol does not show any of this irritation.

There is a constant search to find ingredients that match up to retinol and are less sensitising but still effective. Thus far, bakuchiol is the only botanical extract to clinically prove its viability at such a feat. According to a 2014 study, the twice a day application of bakuchiol was shown to exhibit anti-ageing effects on skin. After 12 weeks, there was a significant improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation lessened, skin elasticity and firmness improved, and even photo-damage reduced. All this, without the undesirable effects of retinol use on skin.

The way in which retinol displays such remarkable anti-ageing effects on skin is through its interaction with specific receptors in the nucleus of the cell. This is turn will increase the production of collagen and blocks inflammatory mediators. In other words, retinol communicates with cells and tells them to do their job better and behave in a younger manner. The way in which bakuchiol delivers results is through the regulation of gene expression. It too will upregulate and stimulate collagen production. The pathways through which both compounds work is similar, however bakuchiol does not seem to induce the same level of irritation.

Can it help acne like retinol?

Besides its powerful anti-ageing properties, retinol also has acne fighting effects. Retinoids act as a comedolytic agent to keep pores clear and prevent breakouts. There are many varieties of retinoids that professionals successfully prescribe for the treatment of acne. Adapalene, tretinoin and tazarotene are a few such retinoids that acne patients require prescriptions to obtain. So how does bakuchiol match up to this?

Bakuchiol has not been as comprehensively researched in the treatment of acne as retinol has. However there have been studies to suggest it may play a role in acne treatment. Bakuchiol has strong antibacterial and antioxidant effects. In a pilot clinical study, 1% bakuchiol was shown to reduce acne by about 57%. By comparison, salicylic acid only reduced acne by 48%. You may recall salicylic acid effects on acne from my complete guide to salicylic acid. The combination was shown to reduce acne and inflammation by 70%.

Retinol and irritation

Retinoids are a very commonly irritating ingredient. People try to push through the adverse side effects in the hope of reaping its extraordinary promises of anti-ageing and acne prevention. However, as I emphasise in each and every post, we are all different. We each have individual needs and tolerances. While retinol may work wonders for someone else’s skin, this may not be the case with you.

Typically, your skin takes a few weeks to acclimate to retinol. When I first began using retinoids, my skin was extremely irritated. It felt as though my face was perpetually sunburned, my skin was peeling at a mere touch, and always looked dry. After some time, your skin will acclimate to the dosage and you will no longer get those negative side effects.

It may also be worth experimenting with different types of retinoids as you may experience terrible reactions from some and you may be fine with others. I have found certain retinol products have been so strong they have triggered the worst flare ups of acne I have ever experienced. Others improve the condition of my skin. It is extremely individual and up to you to judge for yourself.

Who should use bakuchiol?

You may find retinol products irritate your skin to no end. Instead of trying to push through the pain, your skin may simply be intolerant to retinol. Retinol may not agree with your skin, regardless of the percentage you use or type of derivative. In this case, natural retinol alternative bakuchiol may be the answer to your skincare woes. Many natural skincare advocates will appreciate this ingredient due to its botanical nature. Typically, retinoids available via prescription will contain ingredients and certain preservatives that natural skincare advocates do not like, so bakuchiol is definitely a viable choice.

Because of the minimal irritation in comparison to retinol, anyone will be able to use bakuchiol. If you are pregnant or have any urgent medical conditions, it is always wise to consult with your doctor. As I said, it is not as widely researched as retinol, so you may find you prefer the visible results you see from retinol products. If you are running out of your current retinol, would like a break from retinol, would like to introduce a retinol-like product into your routine, or just love new skincare, it is worth seeing how your skin reacts to it.

Bakuchiol Products Worth Trying

Although it is a relatively new retinol-like skin care discovery, a number of skincare brands are already beginning to incorporate natural retinol alternative bakuchiol into their line.

Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum – This line contains purely non toxic, clean beauty products. Alongside bakuchiol, the serum includes squalane and sodium hyaluronate for hydration. It also contains a good dose of niacinamide which will also help to visibly reduce pore size, keep skin clear and even out skin tone.

Ole Henriksen Glow Cycle Serum – This serum is very lightweight and brightening. It contains AHAs to improve skin texture and for additional anti-ageing benefits. The lavender tint also helps to combat dullness by colour correcting skin tone.

Ole Henriksen Goodnight Glow Retin-ALT Creme – For those with drier skin types, you may prefer a more hydrating, thicker cream to a serum. This product is just that. The AHAs will provide overnight exfoliation. For more on chemical exfoliants read this. The inclusion of shea butter ensures that your skin does not become dehydrated overnight. It contains the lavender tint to brighten skin.

Whish Recovering Night Cream – This entire range incorporates bakuchiol into every product. Whish Face Oil is a lovely blend of plant oils that are rich in essential fatty acids. They do not use synthetic dyes, petrochemicals or parabens.

Ren Clean Skincare Bio Retinoid – This anti-ageing cream contains bakuchiol alongside a number of plant extracts. The brand is a more natural line so all products do not contain parabens, formaldehyde and other potentially carcinogenic ingredients. 

If you are feeling fancy

Lancer Advanced Retinol Treatment – Dr Lancer has included both retinol and buckachiol in this powerful anti-ageing formula. The product also contains a number of antioxidants and hydrolysed collagen. Lancer is a higher price point, but the line does not disappoint when it comes to effective products. 

Oskia Super 16 Serum – This serum is hydrating and contains a number of antioxidants to further provide anti-ageing benefits alongside bakuchiol. It does also contain retinol palmitate, another vitamin A derivative. 

Omorovicza Miracle Oil – Omorovicza is a brand that by no means skimps on luxury. This product contains a blend of some of my favourite oils such as almond and sea buckthorn oil, and additional antioxidants. 

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I hope that this post helps to shed some light on the natural retinol alternative bakuchiol. It is a great, gentle option if you are new to retinol or find it does not suit your skin. Perhaps you need a break from retinol and want something that still gives excellent results. 

If you found this post informative, remember to Subscribe to the Blog for more articles like this.

I have a number of articles on the topic of anti-ageing skincare. For more on anti-ageing take a look at these posts:

All about Vitamin C For Anti-ageing

The Complete Guide to Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare 

The Crucial Role of Antioxidants

The Best Korean Skincare Brands You Simply Must Try

Share this post with someone you care about because we all deserve to love the skin we are in. If anything, I’d appreciate the show of support for the simple fact that I wrote this entire article, lost it, then had to re-write it entirely all over again!

Wishing you boundless love, endless light and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. All opinions are my own.

References:

Chaudhuri, R. and Bojanowski, K. (2014). Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 36(3), pp.221-230.

Chaudhuri RK, Marchio F. Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine. 2011;126(7):502–510.

The post Natural Retinol Alternative Bakuchiol Works Miracles appeared first on Shannon Feetham.

Guide to Salicylic Acid Skincare

Whether you deal with recurring acne, unsightly zits, or even the occasional stubborn blemish, it is likely you have been on the pursuit of a solution to your skincare woes at one point or another. You have searched for a particular product or ingredient to help you deal with your blemishes. In your quest for a solution, the ingredient salicylic acid may have been brought to your attention a number of times. Indeed, it is a rather ubiquitous ingredient in the acne-fighting sphere. You may have seen it often enough by now, that the mere sight of a new spot triggers a signal to reach for your salicylic acid skincare products. But, the question remains: what is salicylic acid skincare exactly? And more importantly, what is it doing in our skincare products?

In this article I am going to be giving you the complete guide to everything you need to know about salicylic acid skincare and the function of this ingredient in our skin.

What is salicylic acid?

Salicylic acid is an organic compound also known as a beta hydroxy acid (or BHA) in the skincare realm.

No, organic in this case does not mean that it has been grown without pesticides by a yogi/farmer hybrid, using animal excrements for fertiliser. In the case of organic chemical compounds, organic simply means it contains carbon.

Salicylic acid is used in various industries, from pharmaceuticals and medicine to food preservatives, dyes, pesticides and perfumes. For the purpose of this post we will be focusing on salicylic acid skincare application.

Here’s where the science part comes in, so stay with me. This is the chemical structure of salicylic acid:

As you can see above, there is a carboxyl and a hydroxyl group directly attached to an aromatic benzene ring (the ring with the OH). This makes it not only a beta hydroxy acid but also a phenolic aromatic acid. It is the structure of salicylic acid that makes it so effective at tackling spots.

What is a BHA?

BHAs contain a carboxylic acid functional group and a hydroxyl functional group, separated by two carbon atoms. This is what differs it from an alpha hydroxy acid, which is separated by only one carbon atom.

Have I lost you yet? Stay with me because we’re on to something.

The extra carbon atom makes beta hydroxy acids oil soluble. This readiness to dissolve in oil makes salicylic acid adept at penetrating the pore lining and effectively de-clogging pores. BHAs are thus able to penetrate deeper than AHAs. If you are interested in how BHAs differ from AHAs, read this article about Salicylic Acid vs. Glycolic Acid. 

What is a common denominator when it comes to many people facing acne? Excess oil in the skin and pore. Salicylic acid is miscible with the oils and lipids in the sebaceous glands, which is why we so frequently tout it as an acne saviour.

Are you starting to see the connection?

Salicylic Acid Skincare is Anti-inflammatory

Naturally derived from sources such as willow bark, sweet birch and various other plants, salicylic acid can also be synthetically produced. Salicylic acid is a precursor to the synthesis of aspirin, a pain-relieving, anti-inflammatory analgesic. It is likely that we have all taken an aspirin or some other form of NSAIDs for pain relief at some point in our life, so I am sure you are familiar with the drug.

It is by no coincidence that salicylic acid shares the anti-inflammatory properties of aspirin. As an anti-inflammatory agent, it aids in calming the inflammation that comes along with breakouts. Soothing inflamed skin is vital in the battle against acne.

As well as being anti-inflammatory, salicylic acid exhibits antibacterial activity. Acne can be brought about by the proliferation of P.acnes bacteria in the skin. Salicylic acid skincare products therefore aid in combatting this bacteria.

Exfoliating Action of Salicylic Acid Skincare

Salicylic acid is a keratolytic and comedolytic agent. This simply means that it can soften keratin in skin, loosen skin cells and cause them to shed. It will prohibit the formation of comedones and blemishes and prevent the build-up of dead skin cells in follicles. This action makes it an efficacious chemical exfoliant.

Unlike a face scrub or physical exfoliant that sloughs away dead skin cells by manual abrasion, chemical exfoliants encourage cell turnover by use of certain chemical “active ingredients”. If you purchase salicylic acid skincare products in the USA, you will see the ingredient under the “active ingredients” section of the label. The label will also indicate the percentage of the ingredient used. This is because in larger dosages, it can be classified as a drug.

As well as excess oiliness, the abnormal sticking together of skin cells is a cause of acne. This results in clogged pores and the formation of blackheads, cysts, nodules, the works. As a desmolytic agent, salicylic acid loosens the cohesion between epidermal skin cells, leading to the sloughing away of dead skin cells. The dissolving of this “glue” between skin cells helps to prevent blockages within the follicle.

Can it help clear cystic acne?

It is worth noting that although salicylic acid skincare can help to prevent the formation of acne cysts due to its pore-clearing benefits, it is not so effective at actually getting rid of cystic acne once formed. Rather, it is better for dealing with blackheads and whiteheads. If you want to know exactly how to deal with blackheads, read this post on how to get rid of blackheads.

To a certain extent, salicylic acid skincare can help calm the inflammation brought about by the blemish. However, those struggling with cystic acne or severe cases of acne would need alternative means of solving their skin issues. Take it from someone who knows: plain old salicylic acid skincare products won’t cut it.

And let’s not forget, salicylic acid is also an acid. Something is classed as acidic when it has a pH below 7. Which means it needs a low pH to be effective at exfoliation.

Bonus tip: because it encourages skin cell turnover, salicylic acid is also used in the treatment of conditions like dandruff and psoriasis.

Can salicylic acid help with anti-ageing?

Although AHAs like glycolic acid are more so renowned for their anti-ageing benefits, salicylic acid skincare products can also helpful in revealing younger, more radiant skin. This is due to its ability to remove the skin cells of the epidermis to uncover the younger skin beneath. The exfoliation process helps to diminish the look of fine lines and pigmentation.

Some will regard salicylic acid as collagen stimulating, and you could say that it is anti-ageing in this respect. There is however, an emerging school of thought that although acid exfoliants give an instant gratification effect, the overuse of such acids can have an unfavourable effect in the long term. The instant plumping and radiance of your skin is instead thought to be an increase in swelling of the epidermis. It is your skin’s response to a “wound”, rather than the promotion of new collagen. This may invariably lead to accelerated ageing, which is what we were trying to avoid in the first place.

In my previous article about travel skin care, I made the point about not exfoliating or overusing active ingredients before travel so as not to weaken the skin barrier. I do believe that the overuse of acids in skincare actually has the potential to impair skin barrier function. Removing this superficial protective layer could potentially overexpose skin to environmental aggressors and free radical damage. Click here for more information about free radical damage.

Some signs of over exfoliation include skin dehydration, redness and irritation, dry patches, skin tautness, increased sensitivity and acne flare ups.

Can everyone use salicylic acid?

If you are new to salicylic acid, I would recommend starting a couple of times per week. You can then build up your tolerance to more regular use. For those with extremely sensitive skin, you can always do a patch test first on your arm to see how your skin reacts.

There are varying percentages available on the market. If you have never used a product containing salicylic acid, you may wish to start at a lower dose. As your skin becomes acclimated to the ingredient, you may start increasing the percentage.

As I explain in this article about glycolic acid, salicylic acid has not been shown to induce the same level of sensitivity to the sun as glycolic acid. Read this post for more sun damage information and how to prevent sun damaged skin.

Because of its close relation to aspirin, salicylic acid is not an ingredient you want to be using during pregnancy. Use of aspirin during pregnancy has been linked to birth defects, miscarriage and other complications. So, to my pregnant ladies, put your acid exfoliants on hold for 9 months or so while you’re growing your little bubba.

How often should you use salicylic acid?

The frequency of use depends on a number of factors. How tolerant is your skin to the ingredient? How much do you feel you need to exfoliate? What is the state of your skin and prevalence of blackheads and blemishes? What is your skin type?

Some people are able to use 4% salicylic acid products twice a day with no issue while others limit their use to once a week. Some people may prefer a higher percentage, more potent leave-on exfoliant. Others may find that leave-on acids are too harsh on their skin and prefer a rinse-off formula.

During the period of time in which I had severe cystic acne lesions, I was desperately bombarding my skin with every anti-acne ingredient I could find. I did not understand why the condition of my acne was becoming worse and worse. It turns out, I am someone who benefits more from occasional use of salicylic acid rather than daily use. However, when I find my skin is more congested, I do like to ramp up my usage.

Is salicylic acid safe?

Salicylic acid is perfectly safe to use in OTC products. Applying excessive amounts of salicylic acid to the body can result in salicylate poisoning. I wouldn’t say this is something you really have to be concerned about under regular circumstances as toxicity from salicylic acid is extremely rare. Just as I have reiterated time and time again in my articles, the dose makes the poison. So as long as you’re not dousing yourself in the stuff and overdoing it, you should be fine.

I would also like to point out that because salicylic acid is closely related to aspirin, you will want to steer clear of this ingredient if you have an allergy to aspirin. 

As I always say, we are all individual. Everyone has their own specific dose that will suit them. There is no cookie cutter approach to anything. Whether it is diet, skin care, exercise, we all have individual needs. It is therefore critical to get to know your skin and your triggers and tailor your routine to your own needs.

What are the best salicylic acid products?

I typically use leave-on salicylic acid products with a 2% concentration. Salicylic acid is available in leave-on and rinse-off formulas. It can be used in place of, or after a toner as an “acid toning” step. You can get salicylic acid lotions, face mists, face washes, in spot treatments, moisturiser, and high strength peels.

In an upcoming article I will be doing a complete rundown of all the very best salicylic acid products on the market, for every skin type and need. You already know I have your back and I am working on that post. 😉 So keep your eyes peeled for that article because you don’t want to miss it.

Salicylic Acid Products I Am Loving

Clinique Clarifying Lotion – This is a classic leave-on exfoliant. I have used this for years and found it does not aggravate my skin and is gentle enough for daily use. Swipe on after cleanser and before moisturiser and you are good to go. You can also find the Clinique Clarifying Lotion on Amazon.

COSRX BHA Power Liquid – If you read my previous K-beauty skincare article, I introduced you to this line of skincare. The concentration of BHA in this product is 4% so it is a little more for the BHA aficionado. 

La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo – This hero product from La Roche Posay will keep blackheads and spots at bay. Other ingredients like zinc and niacinamide also help maintain a clear complexion. La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo on Amazon.

Paulas Choice 2% BHA Liquid – You cannot go wrong with this leave-on exfoliant. Swipe it on after your toner. It does not irritate skin and is gentle enough to be used daily. It contains no sensitising ingredients and has the optimal pH for maximum effectiveness. Highly recommend. 

Final Thoughts

Salicylic acid is a prominent skincare ingredient for good reason. It will help clarify sebaceous glands, keep blemishes at bay, encourage skin cell turnover and resolve enlarged pores.

I hope that this guide to salicylic acid skincare was informative and that it answered all the questions you had. If you have any other questions you would like answered, feel free to leave a comment below and I will be happy to get back to you. I may even just write a future article dedicated to your query.

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For more Skin Science Articles:

Complete Guide To Glycolic Acid for Glowing Skin

Everything You Need To Know About Vitamin C To Achieve Younger Skin

The Everything Guide to Hyaluronic Acid In Skincare

What does UV radiation actually do to your skin and why use SPF?

Do you use salicylic acid skincare on a regular basis? What is your favourite salicylic acid skincare product to use?

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. All opinions are my own.

References:

Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, p.455.

Kornhauser, A., Wei, R., Yamaguchi, Y., Coelho, S., Kaidbey, K., Barton, C., Takahashi, K., Beer, J., Miller, S. and Hearing, V. (2009). The effects of topically applied glycolic acid and salicylic acid on ultraviolet radiation-induced erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation in human skin. Journal of Dermatological Science, 55(1), pp.10-17.

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