Vitamin C Skin Care Benefits

We have known about the benefits of vitamin C since its discovery in the 1930’s. Vitamin C really hit the big time when it was discovered that its presence in citrus fruits could prevent sailors from getting scurvy. As a child it may have seemed like your mother would preach vitamin C as a cure for everything from the common cold to a sprained ankle. And today, supplement companies are not the only ones utilising vitamin C. Many skincare brands are popping out their vitamin C products and serums like it’s a brand new innovation. The ingredient is becoming more mainstream with increasing demand. So, should you be using it? And what vitamin C skin care benefits are there?

The role of vitamin C in the body

Vitamin C is an essential water-soluble nutrient that cannot be synthesised naturally by the human body. It must therefore be consumed through diet. It is abundant in citrus fruits, broccoli, strawberries, and all those good fruits and veggies. And now, the vitamin C excuse given by our parents to eat our fruits and veggies has ascended once more in relevance.

But instead of just being told to consume it through diet, we are being told to apply it topically to our skin as well. In recent years it seems that vitamin C has become more and more of a prevalent fixture, not only in medical-grade skincare but in every self-respecting skincare brand’s repertoire of products. Indeed, with proper use it can help reveal a brighter, more youthful complexion. After learning about all the vitamin C skin care benefits, you too will be on the hunt for the perfect vitamin C. 

Oftentimes ‘vitamin C’ may not appear outright on a skincare product label. It may be listed as ascorbic acid, or one of its other variations. The chemically active form of vitamin C is known as L-ascorbic acid. It has a similar structure to glucose and is weakly acidic. L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard for vitamin C in skincare, however various other forms of vitamin C are also growing in use. In an upcoming blog post about I will cover all the derivatives of vitamin C, to help you decide which best fits your needs.

Protects skin from sun damage

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant. If you read my post about antioxidants, you’ll be well informed about the crucial role they play in protecting skin from oxidative damage. Vitamin C neutralises free radicals via electron transfer or donation and removes oxidants such as those from environmental pollutants or UV exposure. By mitigating the harm from oxidative stress, its antioxidant activity is a measure against photoaging.

UV exposure decreases vitamin C content of skin so topical application of vitamin C will help to increase vitamin C concentrations in the skin. This provides a level of photoprotection and limits the effects of DNA damage from UV exposure. Additionally, vitamin E in conjunction with vitamin C has a further protective effect. Read my previous post for more on why UV protection is a great vitamin C skin care benefit. 

Collagen building

It is no secret that skincare freaks are obsessed with collagen. If anti-ageing is your priority, you might even see this as one of the most important vitamin C skin care benefits. Collagen is a protein found in our connective tissues and cells. Vitamin C encourages the synthesis of collagen in the skin. It acts as a cofactor in the hydroxylation of proline and lysine, a process that prevents the weakening and damage of collagen in the body.

Without adequate vitamin C, collagen formation is impaired. This explains the symptoms of illnesses like scurvy, where there has been an evident deterioration of collagen due to lack of vitamin C. This also explains why smokers tend to age prematurely; smoking depletes vitamin C levels and thus impedes collagen formation.

So, if you’re dying for an extra collagen boost, perhaps just skip all the fancy collagen drinks and the extravagant collagen facial treatments you’ve been considering trading your first-born child for. Simply opt to increase your intake of plain old vitamin C instead.  For extra benefits, apply it to your skin as well as consuming it in your diet.

As always, I’d advocate getting your nutrients from old fashion food sources. Just go ahead and eat the food instead of trying to look for some miracle broth or spending the money on supplements. Especially when it comes to vitamin C, which is not that troublesome to get into your diet. And who’s complaining about adding a vitamin C-packed fruit smoothie into their routine?

Wrinkles and sagging

Topical applications of vitamin C have been shown to decrease the appearance of skin wrinkling. As skin ages it is subject to changes in the dermal layer, and the deterioration of elastin and collagen. This leads to wrinkles. Additionally, the thinning of skin and loss of muscle tone can result in skin sagging. Vitamin C reduces oxidative stress in skin and improve skin structure.

The effect of a lack of vitamin C in the skin is evident by simply observing individuals who are vitamin C deficient. As we have already discussed, the antioxidant protection and collagen building vitamin C skin benefits will lessen skin ageing.

Skin Brightening

Vitamin C has brightening effects on skin. This can be particularly helpful for individuals who struggle with hyperpigmentation and dark spots as a result of chronic UV exposure. As you may recall from the blog post about sun damaged skin, prolonged UV exposure triggers the production of melanin in the skin. This leads to skin darkening and eventually brown spots, uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation.

Vitamin C inhibits the action of tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for melanin formation, to prevent this overproduction of pigment. It can therefore improve skin evenness and diminish the look of dark marks. Although, its effects may not be as marked as stronger ingredients like hydroquinone.

Speeds up healing

Vitamin C levels impact wound healing. Due to its collagen-building, anti-inflammatory properties, vitamin C can reinforce a compromised skin barrier and speed up wound healing. Its anti-inflammatory effects also mean that it may be helpful in the treatment of inflammatory skin conditions such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. 

Don’t go pouring lemon juice on a wound anytime soon though, as the acidity from the citrus can be highly irritating to the skin. I guarantee the stinging you’ll get as a result won’t make you feel any better or have any improvement on your condition.

Drawbacks of vitamin C

There are some drawbacks of vitamin C that are worth noting. L-ascorbic acid is hydrophilic and unstable. Vitamin C degrades on exposure to air, light and heat, so stability of topical vitamin C is a concern. Your expensive bottle of vitamin C serum may be degrading by the day. Research suggests a vitamin C concentration between 10 to 20 percent is optimal for vitamin C skin care benefits. There are OTC products that go as high as 30%.

The decreasing concentration means that even if a product claims to contain this level of vitamin C, it is losing efficacy from the moment you begin using it. You can tell a vitamin C product has gone bad because the serum will turn a brown colour. There is concern that using spoiled vitamin C products may actually increase free radical exposure in skin.

Due to the stability issue, many skincare products are increasingly using various vitamin C esters rather than ascorbic acid in their formulations. Depending on the ester, they can be gentler on the skin and absorb more slowly. These vitamin C derivatives however, are often less potent than vitamin C. Their vitamin C skin care benefits have not been as comprehensively studied as ascorbic acid. 

High concentrations of vitamin C cause skin sensitivity and irritation. The pH of the product is also of great importance. For maximum benefits, L-ascorbic acid should have a pH of below 3.5. Such acidic low pH levels have the potential to make the products highly irritating.

Acne

There have been anecdotal concerns about vitamin C products triggering acne. I have not encountered substantial research to support this. However, I have personally experienced an increase in acne after using specific vitamin C esters in my routine. That being said, I have extremely intolerant and irritation-prone skin. This reaction may just be due to the base of the vitamin C serum and not directly caused by the vitamin C itself.

It is also possible that specific vitamin C esters penetrate faster than your skin can tolerate. It does not mean your skin will break out with every vitamin C product. The acidic nature of the ingredient could also have an exfoliating-like effect, triggering unsurfaced blemishes to emerge more quickly. Again, this has not been proven and is merely my two cents. I encourage you to do your own research and consult a medical professional if you are having issues.

Dietary vitamin C is proven to be helpful among individuals with acne, when paired with zinc and other nutrients. There are a few studies that suggest vitamin C derivative sodium ascorbyl phosphate has a positive effect on acne lesions. However, it is not as readily absorbed by skin as ascorbic acid. As I frequently reiterate, it is important to experiment and test out different products to see which best suits your individual needs.

Best practices for maximum vitamin C skin care benefits

In order to retain the vitamin C skin care benefits, a product’s packaging should be air tight. Unless the product comes in individually sealed sachets, you want to make sure to use it up within a couple of months to avoid issues. Incorporating it into your morning skincare routine can make sure you are getting antioxidant protection throughout the day. Make sure to read my step by step guide to properly layering morning skincare.

Best vitamin C products

Here are a couple of ascorbic acid products I love, so you too can get the vitamin C skin care benefits.

Gold Standard Vitamin C

Skinceuticals CE Ferulic – The ultimate holy grail of vitamin C serums. Not only does this serum include vitamin C, it also offers vitamin E and ferulic acid which have both been shown to increase the efficacy of formula. In fact the incredibly effective formula is patented and has been widely considered the gold standard in skincare antioxidants. 

Spot treatment 

Although many people will appreciate the vitamin C skin care benefits, you may only have a few trouble spots. If your main skin concerns are specific dark spots, perhaps from acne or as a result of sun damage, you may wish to consider a spot treatment. This Vitamin C Spot Treatment contains a hefty 25% concentration of vitamin C to target hyper-pigmentation. If you prefer a trail size before committing to a full size, check this one out: Vitamin C Spot Treatment Trial Size.

Vitamin C that stays fresh

This Fresh Pressed Daily Booster comes in individual packaging so as to minimise the chance of the product degrading over too long a time. It contains 10% vitamin C and can easily be mixed into your other products. 

Collagen booster

The Dr Dennis Gross C+ Collagen is another pricey but very effective serum. It is packed with a number of antioxidants such as superoxide dismutase (which I looooove) as well as amino acids. This serum is brimming with vitamin C skin care benefits. It not only contains ascorbic acid but another vitamin C derivative tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Again, watch out for that upcoming blog post. 

Natural option

Vitamin C Serum from Andalou Naturals is a lovely underrated serum. It is organic and natural, gluten free, free of GMOs and relatively affordable. If you find your skin cannot tolerate ascorbic acid, this serum contains a vitamin C derivative magnesium ascorbic phosphate. It also includes a whole host of antioxidants.

Final thoughts

As usual I could go on all day about skincare but I will leave it here before I get too carried away. In a future post I will be breaking down all the best skincare on the market that will provide you all the vitamin C skin care benefits. If you would like to see a review on a specific product, feel free to let me know. And tell me: do you use vitamin C in your routine? Let me know your favourite recommendations, I love hearing the products other people swear by.

If you found value in this information, please share it so that we can be of help to others. Subscribe to the blog for more skin care posts like this. A great deal of thought and care are put into each and every post, so your support, likes and shares are appreciated beyond words. 

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. All opinions are my own.

References:

Wang, K., Jiang, H., Li, W., Qiang, M., Dong, T. and Li, H. (2018). Role of Vitamin C in Skin Diseases. Frontiers in Physiology, 9.

Raschke, T., Koop, U., Düsing, H., Filbry, A., Sauermann, K., Jaspers, S., Wenck, H. and Wittern, K. (2004). Topical Activity of Ascorbic Acid: From in vitro Optimization to in vivo Efficacy. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 17(4), pp.200-206.

Woolery-Lloyd, H., Baumann, L. and Ikeno, H. (2010). Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 9(1), pp.22-27.

The post Vitamin C Skin Care Benefits: Brighter, Firmer Skin appeared first on Shannon Feetham.

Guide to Salicylic Acid Skincare

Whether you deal with recurring acne, unsightly zits, or even the occasional stubborn blemish, it is likely you have been on the pursuit of a solution to your skincare woes at one point or another. You have searched for a particular product or ingredient to help you deal with your blemishes. In your quest for a solution, the ingredient salicylic acid may have been brought to your attention a number of times. Indeed, it is a rather ubiquitous ingredient in the acne-fighting sphere. You may have seen it often enough by now, that the mere sight of a new spot triggers a signal to reach for your salicylic acid skincare products. But, the question remains: what is salicylic acid skincare exactly? And more importantly, what is it doing in our skincare products?

In this article I am going to be giving you the complete guide to everything you need to know about salicylic acid skincare and the function of this ingredient in our skin.

What is salicylic acid?

Salicylic acid is an organic compound also known as a beta hydroxy acid (or BHA) in the skincare realm.

No, organic in this case does not mean that it has been grown without pesticides by a yogi/farmer hybrid, using animal excrements for fertiliser. In the case of organic chemical compounds, organic simply means it contains carbon.

Salicylic acid is used in various industries, from pharmaceuticals and medicine to food preservatives, dyes, pesticides and perfumes. For the purpose of this post we will be focusing on salicylic acid skincare application.

Here’s where the science part comes in, so stay with me. This is the chemical structure of salicylic acid:

As you can see above, there is a carboxyl and a hydroxyl group directly attached to an aromatic benzene ring (the ring with the OH). This makes it not only a beta hydroxy acid but also a phenolic aromatic acid. It is the structure of salicylic acid that makes it so effective at tackling spots.

What is a BHA?

BHAs contain a carboxylic acid functional group and a hydroxyl functional group, separated by two carbon atoms. This is what differs it from an alpha hydroxy acid, which is separated by only one carbon atom.

Have I lost you yet? Stay with me because we’re on to something.

The extra carbon atom makes beta hydroxy acids oil soluble. This readiness to dissolve in oil makes salicylic acid adept at penetrating the pore lining and effectively de-clogging pores. BHAs are thus able to penetrate deeper than AHAs. If you are interested in how BHAs differ from AHAs, read this article about Salicylic Acid vs. Glycolic Acid. 

What is a common denominator when it comes to many people facing acne? Excess oil in the skin and pore. Salicylic acid is miscible with the oils and lipids in the sebaceous glands, which is why we so frequently tout it as an acne saviour.

Are you starting to see the connection?

Salicylic Acid Skincare is Anti-inflammatory

Naturally derived from sources such as willow bark, sweet birch and various other plants, salicylic acid can also be synthetically produced. Salicylic acid is a precursor to the synthesis of aspirin, a pain-relieving, anti-inflammatory analgesic. It is likely that we have all taken an aspirin or some other form of NSAIDs for pain relief at some point in our life, so I am sure you are familiar with the drug.

It is by no coincidence that salicylic acid shares the anti-inflammatory properties of aspirin. As an anti-inflammatory agent, it aids in calming the inflammation that comes along with breakouts. Soothing inflamed skin is vital in the battle against acne.

As well as being anti-inflammatory, salicylic acid exhibits antibacterial activity. Acne can be brought about by the proliferation of P.acnes bacteria in the skin. Salicylic acid skincare products therefore aid in combatting this bacteria.

Exfoliating Action of Salicylic Acid Skincare

Salicylic acid is a keratolytic and comedolytic agent. This simply means that it can soften keratin in skin, loosen skin cells and cause them to shed. It will prohibit the formation of comedones and blemishes and prevent the build-up of dead skin cells in follicles. This action makes it an efficacious chemical exfoliant.

Unlike a face scrub or physical exfoliant that sloughs away dead skin cells by manual abrasion, chemical exfoliants encourage cell turnover by use of certain chemical “active ingredients”. If you purchase salicylic acid skincare products in the USA, you will see the ingredient under the “active ingredients” section of the label. The label will also indicate the percentage of the ingredient used. This is because in larger dosages, it can be classified as a drug.

As well as excess oiliness, the abnormal sticking together of skin cells is a cause of acne. This results in clogged pores and the formation of blackheads, cysts, nodules, the works. As a desmolytic agent, salicylic acid loosens the cohesion between epidermal skin cells, leading to the sloughing away of dead skin cells. The dissolving of this “glue” between skin cells helps to prevent blockages within the follicle.

Can it help clear cystic acne?

It is worth noting that although salicylic acid skincare can help to prevent the formation of acne cysts due to its pore-clearing benefits, it is not so effective at actually getting rid of cystic acne once formed. Rather, it is better for dealing with blackheads and whiteheads. If you want to know exactly how to deal with blackheads, read this post on how to get rid of blackheads.

To a certain extent, salicylic acid skincare can help calm the inflammation brought about by the blemish. However, those struggling with cystic acne or severe cases of acne would need alternative means of solving their skin issues. Take it from someone who knows: plain old salicylic acid skincare products won’t cut it.

And let’s not forget, salicylic acid is also an acid. Something is classed as acidic when it has a pH below 7. Which means it needs a low pH to be effective at exfoliation.

Bonus tip: because it encourages skin cell turnover, salicylic acid is also used in the treatment of conditions like dandruff and psoriasis.

Can salicylic acid help with anti-ageing?

Although AHAs like glycolic acid are more so renowned for their anti-ageing benefits, salicylic acid skincare products can also helpful in revealing younger, more radiant skin. This is due to its ability to remove the skin cells of the epidermis to uncover the younger skin beneath. The exfoliation process helps to diminish the look of fine lines and pigmentation.

Some will regard salicylic acid as collagen stimulating, and you could say that it is anti-ageing in this respect. There is however, an emerging school of thought that although acid exfoliants give an instant gratification effect, the overuse of such acids can have an unfavourable effect in the long term. The instant plumping and radiance of your skin is instead thought to be an increase in swelling of the epidermis. It is your skin’s response to a “wound”, rather than the promotion of new collagen. This may invariably lead to accelerated ageing, which is what we were trying to avoid in the first place.

In my previous article about travel skin care, I made the point about not exfoliating or overusing active ingredients before travel so as not to weaken the skin barrier. I do believe that the overuse of acids in skincare actually has the potential to impair skin barrier function. Removing this superficial protective layer could potentially overexpose skin to environmental aggressors and free radical damage. Click here for more information about free radical damage.

Some signs of over exfoliation include skin dehydration, redness and irritation, dry patches, skin tautness, increased sensitivity and acne flare ups.

Can everyone use salicylic acid?

If you are new to salicylic acid, I would recommend starting a couple of times per week. You can then build up your tolerance to more regular use. For those with extremely sensitive skin, you can always do a patch test first on your arm to see how your skin reacts.

There are varying percentages available on the market. If you have never used a product containing salicylic acid, you may wish to start at a lower dose. As your skin becomes acclimated to the ingredient, you may start increasing the percentage.

As I explain in this article about glycolic acid, salicylic acid has not been shown to induce the same level of sensitivity to the sun as glycolic acid. Read this post for more sun damage information and how to prevent sun damaged skin.

Because of its close relation to aspirin, salicylic acid is not an ingredient you want to be using during pregnancy. Use of aspirin during pregnancy has been linked to birth defects, miscarriage and other complications. So, to my pregnant ladies, put your acid exfoliants on hold for 9 months or so while you’re growing your little bubba.

How often should you use salicylic acid?

The frequency of use depends on a number of factors. How tolerant is your skin to the ingredient? How much do you feel you need to exfoliate? What is the state of your skin and prevalence of blackheads and blemishes? What is your skin type?

Some people are able to use 4% salicylic acid products twice a day with no issue while others limit their use to once a week. Some people may prefer a higher percentage, more potent leave-on exfoliant. Others may find that leave-on acids are too harsh on their skin and prefer a rinse-off formula.

During the period of time in which I had severe cystic acne lesions, I was desperately bombarding my skin with every anti-acne ingredient I could find. I did not understand why the condition of my acne was becoming worse and worse. It turns out, I am someone who benefits more from occasional use of salicylic acid rather than daily use. However, when I find my skin is more congested, I do like to ramp up my usage.

Is salicylic acid safe?

Salicylic acid is perfectly safe to use in OTC products. Applying excessive amounts of salicylic acid to the body can result in salicylate poisoning. I wouldn’t say this is something you really have to be concerned about under regular circumstances as toxicity from salicylic acid is extremely rare. Just as I have reiterated time and time again in my articles, the dose makes the poison. So as long as you’re not dousing yourself in the stuff and overdoing it, you should be fine.

I would also like to point out that because salicylic acid is closely related to aspirin, you will want to steer clear of this ingredient if you have an allergy to aspirin. 

As I always say, we are all individual. Everyone has their own specific dose that will suit them. There is no cookie cutter approach to anything. Whether it is diet, skin care, exercise, we all have individual needs. It is therefore critical to get to know your skin and your triggers and tailor your routine to your own needs.

What are the best salicylic acid products?

I typically use leave-on salicylic acid products with a 2% concentration. Salicylic acid is available in leave-on and rinse-off formulas. It can be used in place of, or after a toner as an “acid toning” step. You can get salicylic acid lotions, face mists, face washes, in spot treatments, moisturiser, and high strength peels.

In an upcoming article I will be doing a complete rundown of all the very best salicylic acid products on the market, for every skin type and need. You already know I have your back and I am working on that post. 😉 So keep your eyes peeled for that article because you don’t want to miss it.

Salicylic Acid Products I Am Loving

Clinique Clarifying Lotion – This is a classic leave-on exfoliant. I have used this for years and found it does not aggravate my skin and is gentle enough for daily use. Swipe on after cleanser and before moisturiser and you are good to go. You can also find the Clinique Clarifying Lotion on Amazon.

COSRX BHA Power Liquid – If you read my previous K-beauty skincare article, I introduced you to this line of skincare. The concentration of BHA in this product is 4% so it is a little more for the BHA aficionado. 

La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo – This hero product from La Roche Posay will keep blackheads and spots at bay. Other ingredients like zinc and niacinamide also help maintain a clear complexion. La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo on Amazon.

Paulas Choice 2% BHA Liquid – You cannot go wrong with this leave-on exfoliant. Swipe it on after your toner. It does not irritate skin and is gentle enough to be used daily. It contains no sensitising ingredients and has the optimal pH for maximum effectiveness. Highly recommend. 

Final Thoughts

Salicylic acid is a prominent skincare ingredient for good reason. It will help clarify sebaceous glands, keep blemishes at bay, encourage skin cell turnover and resolve enlarged pores.

I hope that this guide to salicylic acid skincare was informative and that it answered all the questions you had. If you have any other questions you would like answered, feel free to leave a comment below and I will be happy to get back to you. I may even just write a future article dedicated to your query.

Please share this information so that we can get the facts out about salicylic acid skincare. Feel free to follow my Pinterest boards for where I share more skin tips and some of my favourite articles from around the web. You can also pin this article so that you can refer back to it in the future. And don’t forget to subscribe to our newsletter and updates from the blog!

For more Skin Science Articles:

Complete Guide To Glycolic Acid for Glowing Skin

Everything You Need To Know About Vitamin C To Achieve Younger Skin

The Everything Guide to Hyaluronic Acid In Skincare

What does UV radiation actually do to your skin and why use SPF?

Do you use salicylic acid skincare on a regular basis? What is your favourite salicylic acid skincare product to use?

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. All opinions are my own.

References:

Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, p.455.

Kornhauser, A., Wei, R., Yamaguchi, Y., Coelho, S., Kaidbey, K., Barton, C., Takahashi, K., Beer, J., Miller, S. and Hearing, V. (2009). The effects of topically applied glycolic acid and salicylic acid on ultraviolet radiation-induced erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation in human skin. Journal of Dermatological Science, 55(1), pp.10-17.

The post Salicylic Acid Skincare: The Complete Guide appeared first on Shannon Feetham.

How does the Sun damage your skin?

You might have heard by now the importance of sun protection for your skin in the prevention of sun damage and skin cancers. Despite this, many of us do not always make sun protection a priority. As someone born and raised in the Mediterranean, I am accustomed to sunny weather. I do not burn easily and am not aware of the Sun’s immediate effects. It is therefore not natural behaviour for me to be pedantic about sun protection. After all, can it really be that damaging?

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure

Oftentimes in the face of a skin issue like sun damage, we want to be told the solution lies in latest and greatest innovation in skincare formulations. Or the newest technological advances in laser therapy, the strongest acid peels. Not that we should be wearing sunscreen. We want to be in on this big high-tech secret that solves all our problems and even raises our children in the process. The idea that one magic pill or potion could erase years of misbehaviour is just more appealing. The truth is years of sun damage can easily be averted, provided we take some small steps of prevention. But we must first understand how it occurs so we can identify how to prevent it. 

The lowdown

So, we are aware of sun damage. But what exactly are the implications of prolonged sun exposure and why does sun damage even happen? We often wait until we see the visible signs of an issue to take action. However, the small steps we take each day will make the greatest impact. And this applies to our skin and preventing sun damage. Instead of waiting for the visible signs of sun damage to surface, we should be actively working to mitigate the effects.

If you’re a science nerd like me, sometimes it is only the factual information that is able to persuade me to act on something. Simply being told that I should do something without being given the facts is not enough. Partly because I don’t like being told what to do – period. And partly because I don’t ever trust only one source of information. I like to look at the mechanisms behind a problem and conduct my own investigations from multiple sources. So, here is the stripped back essence of what UV radiation does to skin.

UV radiation

Ultraviolet (UV) is part of the electromagnetic spectrum of radiation falling between visible light and X-rays. The sun emits this UV radiation, but unlike light rays or infrared, it cannot be seen or felt. UV radiation has been classed as a Group 1 carcinogen, meaning it has strong cancer-causing potential.

There are a few different types of UV radiation: UVA, UVB and UVC. UV radiation is classified as a carcinogen due its tumour promoting and tumour initiating effect. When we are exposed to the sun, UV radiation contributes to the depletion of stem cells, causes stem cell DNA damage and eventually leads to photoinduced ageing of skin.

Saving the ozone layer will not only save the environment, but it will save our skin too!

The ozone layer acts as a protective barrier to absorb a lot of UV radiation from the sun. UVC is completely filtered out by the ozone layer but UVA and UVB are still able to reach the earth’s surface. The continual depletion of ozone, as a result of certain compounds and pollutants being released into the atmosphere, poses a risk in aggravating the health effects caused by these harmful rays.

In this post, I am going to focus on ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B as they relate to sun damage of the skin and aging.

The difference between UVA and UVB

What are UVA rays?

UVA rays account for most of the sunlight reaching the earth and penetrate more deeply than UVB. This means that they can penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin at the dermis. These rays are responsible for the adaptive melanisation (or tanning) of our skin. Melanocyte cells respond to UVA rays by triggering melanin to darken the skin in an attempt to protect it. The darkening of the skin from a tan is in fact the skin’s response to the damage of DNA.

Silent killer

You do not physically feel the effects of the damage on your skin in the sense that unlike sunburn, solely tanning is not unpleasant and does not cause discomfort. However, this is bad news for those of us who thought that if we simply tan and are not prone to sunburn, we are at less risk than those who burn. Just because our body does not show the immediate adverse effects of the sun does not mean sun damage is not occurring. 

Repetitive UVA exposure ages skin cells, damages DNA, precipitates the formation of wrinkles and is responsible for the majority of skin cancers. As long as the sun is out, UVA rays are present. They penetrate glass so that even when you are indoors, if you are in a building with windows, you are being exposed to UVA rays.

What are UVB rays?

UVB rays are slightly higher in energy than UVA rays. They are especially prevalent at high altitudes and on reflective surfaces (explaining that bad sunburn you got on your ski holiday) but do not penetrate glass significantly in the way UVA rays do. UVB is chiefly responsible for the reddening of skin and erythema (sunburn) and plays a role in skin cancer. Its inflammatory effect kills keratinocytes and voila, you have sunburn.

This type of UV radiation affects the more superficial epidermal layers of skin but also contribute to tanning and photo-ageing. It induces skin pigmentation by increasing melanin synthesis. The oxidative stress induced by UV exposure increases the production of reactive oxygen species, leading to the proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes. These accumulate and increase epidermal thickness so that the surface layer is dull, dense and crepey.

B is for burn

UVB is more efficient in inducing immediate erythema (or sunburn) but does trigger melanin synthesis and will eventually lead to delayed tanning. The overproduction of melanin skin cells can form clusters of darker skin. Cue hyper pigmentation, dark spots and dullness. With age, the outer layer of skin becomes dense, dry and dull. Think that leathery skin texture with dark patches that you see on people who lay on the beach without protection for years.

Vitamin D

UVB however, also plays a vital role in generating vitamin D, which is a steroid hormone that regulates over 1000 biochemical processes in the body. It is important to keep vitamin D levels in check while also being smart about sun protection. It is a myth that tanning booths are a good source of vitamin D since UVA rays are the type mainly used in tanning, and not UVB (so don’t buy into the lie that indoor tanning booths are a good source of vitamin D, folks).

Keeping your skin protected from the Sun

Some simple steps you can take to keep your skin protected from the sun:

• Liberally apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen to the exposed areas of your skin
• Reapply sunscreen after swimming or sweating as it can wash off
• Wear sunglasses to shield your eye area
• Stay in the shade during peak hours of sun
• Wear hats to protect your scalp and face
• Avoid skincare ingredients that may induce photosensitivity
• Do not allow your skin to burn
• Avoid tanning booths and use self-tanners instead. Or go au naturale. 

Certain ingredients make you more sun sensitive

There are a number of skincare ingredients that can increase the skin’s sensitivity to the Sun. Such ingredients include various fragrant plant oils, glycolic or lactic acids, and benzoyl peroxide. This means that, if your skincare routine contains any of these ingredients, there is even greater reason to use an SPF daily.

Various ingredients also help to lessen the effects of excess sun exposure. I wrote an entire article about vitamin C skincare benefits – spoiler, it also helps with photo-protection. Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid can help to strengthen the skin barrier. Read this article for what HA does for skin. And read this article for why antioxidants help protect skin alongside SPF. 

What does SPF do?

The SPF rating on sunscreens refers to the protection from UVB rays. It essentially lets you know how long you can stay in direct contact with the sun before your skin begins to burn. For instance, if your skin begins to burn after 20 minutes in the sun, applying an SPF 30 means it will take 30 times longer before you burn.

Because of the lack of liberal sunscreen application, it is best to apply an SPF 30 or greater so that you can be sure you are getting adequate sun protection. An SPF beyond 50 can be misleading. It is probably more beneficial to frequently reapply an SPF 30, than to assume an SPF 100 will protect you 100 times more effectively. Many countries ban a rating over SPF 50 due to the false sense of security it gives.

In terms of percentage of UVB radiation that SPF will block out, SPF 15 sunscreens will filter about 93% of UVB rays, SPF 30 sunscreens filter out about 97%, SPF 50 sunscreens about 98%, and SPF 100 about 99%. As the SPF rating increases, the difference between consecutive ratings becomes smaller. It should be noted that no sunscreen will block out 100% of all UV rays.

What to look for in a sunscreen

Because SPF relates only to protection from UVB, opt for a “broad spectrum” sunscreen. This means it will shield you from both the UVA and UVB rays and will safeguard you from the visible surface level effects of sun damage as well as the deeper level damage to skin.

In an upcoming article, I will be giving a complete overview of all the very best SPF products with the best textures, best ingredients and best under makeup. As a teaser, I will mention this Murad SPF 50 is a game changer. And this non toxic sunscreen is the best “natural” option I have tried yet. You will also want to check out this mineral sunscreen review as a great option for under makeup wear. I will explain everything you want to know in the upcoming post. Let me know in the meantime: do you have a favourite sunscreen?

Stay vigilant

At times it might feel a little wasteful or redundant to slap on sunscreen just to pop outside for five minutes, or during a cloudy day. I must admit I am still having to acclimate to the practice of daily sunscreen use. Keep in mind that although you cannot feel or see the UV rays, they are still present at all times – apart from at night when the sun is no longer in the sky. As long as you can see outside, sun damage is able to occur, and the damage is cumulative. 

It is never too late to begin to take adequate protection of your skin and prevent further harm. The fact is, this isn’t even an aesthetic matter. Being mindful of UV exposure is simply ensuring that you are taking care of your health. Your skin is your largest organ; it’s a living organism. Take care of it and it will take care of you. 

If you found value in this blog post, please share this article so we can spread the message. Follow the blog for more skincare posts. 

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. All opinions belong to the author.

Sources:
Panich, U., Sittithumcharee, G., Rathviboon, N. and Jirawatnotai, S. (2016). Ultraviolet Radiation-Induced Skin Aging: The Role of DNA Damage and Oxidative Stress in Epidermal Stem Cell Damage Mediated Skin Aging. Stem Cells International, 2016, pp.1-14.

D’Orazio, J., Jarrett, S., Amaro-Ortiz, A. and Scott, T. (2013). UV Radiation and the Skin. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 14(6), pp.12222-12248.

Fda.gov. (2018). Ultraviolet (UV) Radiation. [online] Available at: https://www.fda.gov/radiation-emittingproducts/radiationemittingproductsandprocedures/tanning/ucm116425.htm

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The Beauty of Antioxidants For Skin

Antioxidants. Even if you are not remotely interested in science or health, you likely have heard the term ‘antioxidant’ thrown around before. Perhaps the first thing that springs to mind is a bowl of blueberries, or even dark chocolate. Both of these foods are often touted for their antioxidant benefits. But what are antioxidants exactly and what do they do for us?

The role of antioxidants

Take a look at the word ‘antioxidant’. ‘Anti’ means ‘opposed to’, and ‘oxidant’ is the term given to an oxidising agent. That is, a substance that gains electrons. Free radicals are unstable, highly reactive molecular species. To best explain the action between antioxidants and free radicals, let’s briefly throw in some basic chemistry. A stable and unreactive atom or molecule has a full outer shell of electrons. If its outer shell is incomplete, it will form bonds with other atoms or ions in order to achieve a full outer shell.

A free radical is a chemical species with an unpaired electron. The unpaired electron means that this free radical atom or molecule is desperately attempting to fill its outermost atomic orbital. This is why it is so reactive. Free radicals are able to undergo a number of chain reactions. They attack cells and cause damage in the body, leading to a number of diseases, oxidative stress and what we know as ‘ageing’.

Antioxidants work to oppose free radicals in the body. They do this in a number of ways. For the sake of our original definition of ‘antioxidant’, they do this by donating an electron to these unstable free radicals. Thus lessening the harmful effects of cellular damage. If you’ve ever heard that antioxidants help to ‘keep you young’, this is what they mean. The antioxidants will act as a defense against the damage from free radicals, thus curtailing the ageing effects on the body.

Free radicals are everywhere

You might be aware that free radical exposure increases as a result of environmental pollution, smoking or excess UV exposure. However, free radicals can also be formed internally by our body’s own processes. They are produced internally through exercise, inflammation and by our own mitochondria.

Free radicals are not inherently evil per se; it is their presence in excess without the adequate level of antioxidants to combat them that causes trouble. Therefore a balance between free radicals and antioxidants is needed to ensure the proper function of physiological processes. As I always say, the dose makes the poison and an imbalance in anything can lead to an unfavourable result.

Give me all the antioxidants

Antioxidants come from enzymatic sources such as glutathione, as well as non-enzymatic sources such as good ol’ vitamins C and E. Just by topping off your breakfast with some vitamin C-rich citrus or berries, and vitamin E-rich nuts and seeds, you are already starting your day off with some potent antioxidant activity. You may have noticed if you drizzle some lemon juice over chopped fruit you can prevent it from turning brown. The lemon juice prevents the oxidation of the fruit when it is exposed to air. 

Other great sources of antioxidants are green tea, goji berries, blackberries, dark chocolate, herbs and spices like cinnamon and parsley, just to name a few. In future blog posts, I will be diving deeper in to the very best food sources of antioxidants and the anti-aging compounds you need in your life.

Antioxidants in skin care

Unlike other active ingredients, antioxidant usage does not necessarily show immediate results. They do however have a protective effect against the cumulative damage caused by oxidative stress in the long-term. You might not get that instant gratification result from using an antioxidant serum for example. However, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure and regular use pays off.

People tend to turn to vitamin C as their go-to antioxidant product, and while topical application of vitamin C does have remarkable benefits for skin, it is not the only antioxidant around. Many vitamin C products don’t always agree with my skin. Although, I must say I have been enjoying this vitamin C product recently. I’ll explain all the details and why I like this particular product in an upcoming post, but *spoiler alert* vitamin C is not easy to formulate and this is one of the better ones. Click here for the post all about vitamin C skin care benefits. I will also be publishing an article on more about vitamin C derivatives and esters, and which product to choose for your skin needs.

Some people (including myself) find that certain variations of vitamin C do not work for their skin and even cause breakouts. But you don’t have to put up with breakouts just to feel as though you are getting the benefits of antioxidants. There are plenty to choose from. I will be going in-depth into what to look out for in antioxidant products in an upcoming article very soon. Click here for a must-read article on everything you want to know about the antioxidant hyaluronic acid.

Get the biggest results

Antioxidant ingredients break down in the presence of oxygen and light. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to the packaging of whatever antioxidant product you choose to use. Opaque packaging that does not come in contact with the air is the best choice.

Pair your daily sun protection with a product containing antioxidants. This can help to ensure you are getting maximum protection throughout the day from environmental stressors, pollution, and UV radiation. Read this post about why you need sun protection and follow the blog for upcoming posts on the best tried and tested SPF products. Do you use antioxidants in your routine? If so, what are your go-to products or foods with antioxidants?

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is in no way sponsored. All opinions are my own.

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Hyaluronic acid in the body

Hyaluronic acid has become a big beauty buzzword over the years. Marketers seem to have capitalised on the ingredient to no end, with the molecule being endorsed in every product from moisturisers to foundations to lipstick. With the constant reiteration of a term we may know so much as it is somehow beneficial and improves the look of skin. However, beyond simply being told that I should use an ingredient, I do like to look deeper into the science behind it so that I can make my own informed choice. So for those who, like me, hunger for even more information, here is everything you need to know about hyaluronic acid in skin care. 

Hyaluronic acid (or hyaluronan) belongs to a group of polysaccharides (a long chain carbohydrate) known as glycosaminoglycans. It is a key component of the extracellular matrix, forming part of the tissue that surrounds collagen and elastin fibres. Basically, it is a vital substance that occurs naturally in the body. It lubricates the eyes, joints and connective tissue, and works to bind and hold water molecules in the skin. Approximately 50% of hyaluronan found in the body is found in the skin.

Typically, when we think of acids in relation to skincare, we might think of chemical peels and chemical exfoliants. However, hyaluronic acid is not an acid exfoliant in the way that acids such as glycolic acid or salicylic acid are, but rather a humectant whose function is to attract and retain moisture. In fact, hyaluronic acid is able to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water. Think of the plump, bouncy, hydrated skin of a baby; it is chock-full of hyaluronic acid.

Decreased hyaluronic acid levels lead to visible ageing

The hyaluronic acid levels in our skin decrease with age, which explains why our skin with every passing decade gets further and further from that pillowy, supple, smooth baby skin. Due to the loss of this water-binding molecule in the skin, skin’s moisture levels also decrease with age. This leads to visible lines, dryness and loss of volume. The lip-plumping, cheeking-filling, face-volumising properties of HA make it a popular choice for injectable fillers such as Juvederm.

As a humectant, hyaluronic acid draws moisture from the environment to the skin, keeping it supple and replenished without the need of heavy or occlusive moisturisers. This makes it an ideal choice for hot and humid weather conditions and works for all skin types from oily to dry. A great way to hydrate during the current hot summer weather is incorporating a HA with pantothenic acid. Pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) is known for its moisturising and soothing properties so works nicely with HA to regenerate dehydrated skin.

Some great examples of this are:

Roche Posay Hyalu B5 Anti-wrinkle Serum – Fabulous for keeping skin hydrated during the hot weather. It contains two types of pure HA as well as B5 protect your skin barrier and moisturise. It is a very elegant texture, not heavy, great for summer time. And it’s currently on sale through this beauty site!

The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 is an affordable hyaluronic acid and B5 serum. It contains HA of varying molecular weights for increased skin penetration. Again, very lightweight and great for hot and humid weather.  If you are already in love with the serums you are using and do not want to have to add another substantial layer or serum, try a HA essence.

This lotion from a great Japanese brand is brimming with hyaluronic acid and goes on light and liquid. Simply pat on your face before you apply your usual serums and you are good to go. One thing is for sure: the Japanese certainly know what they are doing when it comes to skin.

Does HA work for everyone?

There has been concern that, due to its ability to pull moisture from the environment, hyaluronic acid may not be ideal for use in extremely dry arid desert conditions. The lack of moisture in the air may potentially result in the pulling of moisture from the deeper levels of your own skin. While there isn’t substantial research to support this, you should always pay attention to your skin’s needs and your current environment.

If you feel that this ingredient does not work for your current needs, there are plenty of alternative ways to provide your skin with moisture. If you’d still like to incorporate hyaluronic acid into your routine, try layering emollient and occlusive moisturisers over your hyaluronic acid product to prevent the evaporation of water from your skin. Read this for the best emollient face oils.

All the benefits

Hyaluronic acid has additional benefits that go beyond attracting moisture to skin.

• It provides potent antioxidant activity and reduces oxidative damage from free radicals. Read this for why your skin needs antioxidants and more on free radicals.
• Ageing caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors result in the breakdown of collagen protein. Hyaluronic acid helps to slow down this process of collagen loss.
• It is a not a commonly allergenic ingredient so works well even on sensitive skin.
• Strengthens the skin barrier so skin is more resilient and protected.
• Increases skin ceramide production.
• Improves skin elasticity.
• It has anti-inflammatory properties. Inflammation is the number one cause of ageing. This means we want to mitigate its effects on the body as much as possible.
• Beneficial for use on sunburned, UV-damaged skin, wounds and other inflammatory skin issues. Read this post on how UV rays damage skin.

Molecular size matters

Hyaluronic acid forms a film over the skin to reduce trans epidermal water loss. Incorporating a well formulated hyaluronic acid product can help to diminish the effects of the skin’s natural loss of hyaluronan over time. One caveat of the topical application of hyaluronic acid is that it is a larger molecule so does not easily penetrate into the skin’s deeper layers.

Lower molecular weight alternatives can be used to enhance the ingredient’s penetration. Sodium hyaluronate is a salt of hyaluronic acid with a smaller size molecule. It can therefore be more easily absorbed into skin rather than sit on the surface as a larger molecule would. Other ingredients you may come across on an INCI list include hydrolysed hyaluronic acid and sodium acetylated hyaluronate.

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What about supplements?

I am a big fan of improving yourself from the inside out. I maintain that the best way to get any nutrient is by nutrition first of all. And I do question how mandatory certain supplements are, or whether they truly have an effect. However, as it would turn out, hyaluronan supplements may actually have some benefit. According to a randomised double blind, placebo controlled study (aka the best type of study) published in a 2017 paper, oral hyaluronan was shown to improve the look of wrinkles and overall skin condition.

I have looked at other studies using different molecular weight HA and, whether it was 2k, 300k or 800k molecular weight HA, there were notable skin improvements. The higher molecular weight of 300k did show sooner significant improvements than 2k however. This has been repeated in various other studies and the results look promising. There will be a notable improvement around 8 to 12 weeks, so it might be a supplement worth experimenting with.

You might want to try

Hyaluronic Acid 300mg 90 capsules by Nu U Nutrition – This supplement is vegetarian/vegan friendly. It is free of wheat, lactose, gluten and GMO. I have family members who are both lactose and gluten intolerant, so I like to take that into consideration when opting for a supplement. I hope it will be helpful for those of you who also struggle with intolerances. It does contain soy for its source of HA though, for those who are sensitive to soy.

Hyaluronic Acid 300mg Triple Strength Hyaluronic Acid – A hyaluronic acid is derived from fermentable bacteria and not soy. The dose of HA given in the studies was 120mg daily, which means there may not be a spectacular improvement below this. Both supplements I have listed contain a good 300mg dose of HA for a noticeable difference. They also contain a 3 month supply which is in line with the study conducted over 12 weeks.

We all have different gut flora, enzymes, genetic dispositions, DNA, and our cellular processes all run differently. Therefore I can’t guarantee these will be a good fit for everyone. But I do hope some of you find benefit from taking HA orally. Please keep me updated if you try it!

Best hyaluronic acid products

Some underrated stars 

Pestle and Mortar Pure Hyaluronic Serum – This serum is one of my new favourite finds. The ingredients are quite minimal with nothing overly harsh or fragrant. There are a few additional soothing ingredients and vitamin E. It is incredibly lightweight and works well under makeup. A few drops is all you need and it leaves your face feeling deeply hydrated. 

Dermadoctor Hyaluronic Serum – Dermadoctor is an excellent, under the radar brand. I’m not sure why because their products are very well formulated. This particular serum contains various size HA and sodium hyaluronate along with antioxidants. The one thing that irks me about dropper bottles, as used in many of the HA products I will mention, is their tendency to be easily knocked over. Just make sure when you are spending money on a good product, you are careful with the packaging as I have knocked mine over time and time again. 

Hyaluronic Marine Hydration Booster – Dr Dennis Gross’ line is a fantastic option in general. If you want to treat yourself to a great HA product Dr Dennis Gross is great for more sophisticated formulations. This serum is non greasy and weightless. Not only does it contain HA in the form of sodium hyaluronate but does also offer additional free radical protection from antioxidant extracts. Read this post for more on why we need free radical protection. 

Classic Favourites

Clinique Moisture Surge Hydrating Supercharged Serum – This is a classic staple of mine. Fragrance free, oil free, gentle and soothing. Does not cause breakouts or irritation. Perfect and lightweight for summer. Not as pricey as Dennis Gross but still quite moderately-high priced for Clinique. Although I will say you do tend to save a significant amount of money (over 20%) on this through the Everything Store (aka Amazon) than regular beauty retailers (seeing as I already buy everything from toothpaste to electronics from there).

Resist Hyaluronic Acid Booster  – A well formulated HA from Paula’s Choice with an elegant texture. This is intended to go alongside your regular products for that extra ‘boost’ of hydration. You could also use it alone as a little goes a long way. It also includes ceramides, an ingredient I will be going in depth with in a future article, so stay tuned. *Spoiler* you want to be incorporating ceramides into your routine.

If you want to get really fancy

Of course the brands I have listed are moderately priced in comparison to a number of luxe brands. In fact, in my research I found a number of hyaluronic acid products listed in the hundreds of dollars territory! Dr Barbara Sturm has a hyaluronic acid serum priced at a cool £230! I have obviously not tried this particular product as I have all other recommendations  due to the fact that unfortunately I am not currently in possession of a spare £230 to spend on a mere 30ml of product. The product does contain probiotics which are proving more and more an interesting ingredient though. But I still cannot say I feel the hefty price tag is justified. 

Omorovicza carries a product they call Blue Diamond Concentrate, which is essentially Sodium Hyaluronate and some fragrance for £295. Okay, it throws in a few other ingredients too and I’m sure there’s someone out there who swears by it, so no judgement. It may be of interest to a few princesses of the world who happen to have a spare few hundred pounds lying around. I don’t personally believe more expensive equates to being better, but if you enjoy splurging and have the means to do so, that’s awesome too! For those who do have a budget, please don’t feel you need to spend an exorbitant amount of money on hyaluronic acid by any means. You can get great results with something affordable. 

If you just want pure HA

Hyaluronic Acid Serum 100% Pure  – This serum from Timeless Skincare is a natural, gentle formula of purely hyaluronic acid. Great for those who want to add the ingredient to boost your current routine. One container holds a generous amount product. 

100% Pure-Highest Quality, Anti-Aging Serum Intense Hydration + Moisture, Non-greasy, Paraben-free – Straight up pure HA. Fabulous to mix with other serums and feel like your own cosmetic chemist. Very thin texture. It won’t irritate your skin and will last a long while. 

If you want to hydrate and still beat the heat

Roche Posay Hyalu B5 Serum – You’re going to want to add this to your summer skincare routine. Keeps your skin radiant and hydrated without the heaviness.

Affordable but just as great

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel – Absorbs quickly while still providing excellent moisture that lasts. Oil free and non comedogenic, so dry skin can still benefit from the hydration without worrying it will clog pores.  

The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5  – Don’t let the price of this affordable serum fool you; it is still extremely effective. The Ordinary’s sister brand NIOD has a great hyaluronic acid product too, if you want a formula that is a little more sophisticated.

I hope you found this post helpful and informative. Do you have a favourite hyaluronic acid product? What is your can’t-live-without HA skincare?

Remember to share this article, and Subscribe to the Blog for more for more daily blog posts covering all things skincare and wellness-related. 

Check out more great blog posts about Skin Science:

The Complete Guide to Salicylic Acid: Demystifying BHAs

All About Antioxidants and Free Radicals

Unravelling All Things UV Radiation and SPF 

Everything You Need To Know About Vitamin C For Brighter Skin

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. All opinions are strictly my own.

Sources: Oe, M., Sakai, S., Yoshida, H., Okado, N., Kaneda, H., Masuda, Y. and Urushibata, O. (2018). Oral hyaluronan relieves wrinkles: a double-blinded, placebo-controlled study over a 12-week period.

Kawada, C., Yoshida, T., Yoshida, H., Sakamoto, W., Odanaka, W., Sato, T., Yamasaki, T., Kanemitsu, T., Masuda, Y. and Urushibata, O. (2018). Ingestion of hyaluronans (molecular weights 800 k and 300 k) improves dry skin conditions: a randomized, double blind, controlled study.

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