The Causes of Acne

So, why do we get pimples? As part of the ‘How To Get Rid Of Acne’ Series on my YouTube channel, I created this video on the causes of breakouts. In this video I explain what acne is, how it forms, and the factors that contribute towards acne. I give a holistic and science-based perspective to treating skin conditions and the importance of investigating the underlying issues that may be inducing them. Whether it’s stress-induced, fungal or cystic acne – knowing the cause of your breakouts can get you a step closer to overcoming your skin woes.

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Chemical peels have been around in some form or another for centuries. Professional strength, in-office peels in particular were hugely popular in the 90s. While lasers and other interventions took the spotlight for a while, professional chemical peels are still extremely popular in-office treatments. They are proven effective and results are indisputable. Dullness, signs of ageing, acne and brighter skin are all promised outcomes of the treatment. This blog post introduces the Salicylic Acid Chemical Peel for Acne treatment.

Acne Intervention

June 2019

I must admit that the past few months have not been kind on my skin. While we can try to uphold certain stress-relieving practices in life, stress is sometimes inevitable and unavoidable. Stress will undoubtedly elicit an unfavourable response in anyone’s body. Be it stress-eating, unwanted weight gain or weight loss, diminished hair quality, hair loss, acne, autoimmunity – the list goes on. I have experienced every single one of these adverse reactions to stress. And one way my body unfailingly reacts to stress is flare ups in my skin condition. Not least because stress is inflammatory and sends your entire system into a manic hormonal cascade. It shifts everything out of balance – including your skin.

This has inexorably led to more acne lesions than is typical for me and more reactive skin. Once my eating patterns begin to normalise again (that is to say, I quit my 2am junk food habit I have kept up for a couple months now), and I get a better handle on my stress levels, I am hopeful that my skin will improve. However, an increase in acne lesions also means I have been bestowed with new post-acne hyperpigmentation marks too. Nowadays I do believe in a gentler approach to my skin than the formally abrasive, harsh approach I took as a teenager. However, sometimes a more vigorous intervention is necessary.

Trying A Professional Chemical Peel for Acne

My inner scientist has been curious to try a professional strength chemical peel for acne for a while. Thus, I thought that now might be an opportune time to investigate while my skin is not behaving. Once I see the full extent of the treatment’s efficacy, I can report its effectiveness, and whether I recommend it.

I have decided upon a 30% salicylic acid chemical peel, which has particularly compelling research for acne patients. This blog posts details all about this type of peel in case you were curious to try it yourself. I will also be documenting my experience and journey with the peel in follow up blog posts.

Tailor your treatment to your own needs

I would like to preface by emphasising that a suitable acne treatment varies from individual to individual. Milder cases may only require the use of spot treatments or may even do well with natural interventions or remedies. Moderate cases may be eliminated with a course of antibiotics or even hormonal birth control. More extreme cases of acne may require more urgent interventions. Accutane or other oral medications, for instance, will quickly eliminate the condition and prevent permanent scarring of the skin. At my worst I was given daily antibiotics, abrasive scrubs, along with topical antibiotics.

I am now appalled by the length of time I was kept on these medications. They had deleterious effects on my health and mercilessly tore up my microbiome. However, if you are an acne sufferer, you understand how emotional and distressing it is. When you must look at your acne each and every day, you want nothing more than to eradicate your dreaded skin condition. Admittedly, nothing will do that quite like certain pharmaceuticals. If your acne is taking an emotional toll, such medications can drastically improve your quality of life and self-esteem.

Treatments should complement each other

Unfortunately, a proper skincare regimen was never emphasised by my doctor. I personally found from my own vigorous research that introducing ingredients such benzoyl peroxide and adapalene helped immensely. Here is an entire blog post on the top skincare ingredients for acne. I would encourage addressing the root cause of your acne, as well as introducing a proper skincare routine. These are important even if you are taking medications such as birth control or antibiotics to clear your skin. I made both these mistakes taking hormonal birth control and antibiotics. And I can assure you that your acne will return once you stop the medication.

Each time my acne returned because I was not yet equipped to address my root cause. I did not have a proper skincare regime either at the time. I now maintain my skin solely with OTC skincare products, deciding I do not want to spend my life on medications. There is no magic bullet when it comes to skin. A number of therapies should be used in conjunction with one another for optimal results. The only medication with a track record to truly eliminate acne for good is Accutane. However, I have never personally taken this. If your acne is severe, I strongly advise consulting a dermatologist for a mode of action to suit your needs.

On to the topic of today’s post: chemical peel for acne treatment.

What is a chemical peel for acne?

Chemical peels involve the use of chemical exfoliants, to remove the outer layers of skin and encourage shedding. Acids include Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Beta Hydroxy Acids, Jessner’s Solution or Trichloroacetic Acid. This induced exfoliation can encourage rejuvenation and resurfacing of the skin. This reveals smoother, fresh skin with improved texture and tone.

Which chemical peel for acne should you choose?

Commonly used superficial and medium depth chemical peeling agents include: salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, Jessner’s solution and Trichloroacetic acid. For an explanation of the difference between BHA and AHA exfoliants, read this blog post.  

Certain acids are more typically used for the treatment of superficial wrinkles, and other concerns related to anti-ageing. Others are better suited for the treatment of acne and scarring. Today I will be addressing chemical peels for acne-related issues specifically.

Glycolic acid demonstrates clinical efficacy in improving skin condition of acne patients. However, salicylic acid has proven to be even more so effective. Glycolic acid also causes a greater risk of sun sensitivity. This is why I am opting for a salicylic acid chemical peel.

What strength of chemical peel for acne?

Strengths vary from superficial peels, to medium depth peels, to deep peels. Professional chemical peels are much stronger than the daily exfoliants suitable for at-home use. Hence, they provide much quicker, and drastically more noticeable results.

Higher strength, deeper peels cause a greater amount of shedding and possible side effects. Because results are more drastic, however, there can be a longer length of time between treatments. Each treatment is also more expensive but results can last up to a year.

Superficial peels, like the salicylic acid 30% I am choosing, involve less down time post-treatment. Peels must also be done more frequently in order to maintain results. I am having a total of 4 treatments done 2 weeks apart, after which I will evaluate the full extent of the peel.

What do salicylic acid peels do?

Essentially, salicylic acid is a chemical exfoliant that breaks the bonds holding skin together, in order to slough away the top layer of skin. The comedolytic and lipophilic properties of salicylic acid make it favourable for use in the treatment of mild to moderate inflammatory acne. It encourages shedding of epidermal skin cells, is lipid soluble, decreases sebum, penetrates pores to prevent clogging, and has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

Not only will salicylic acid improve the prevalence of active acne lesions, but its anti-inflammatory properties may also help to decrease facial erythema and lighten post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. As a naturally medium-toned girl, I develop post-acne dark marks after every blemish. If you too have the same issue, a peel can be of great benefit. Salicylic acid peels can be helpful for use in conditions such as acne vulgaris, melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, freckles, mild to moderate photodamage, texturally rough skin and minor wrinkles.

I encourage you to read my in-depth blog post about salicylic acid, to get the most optimal idea of its properties.

Before the peel

Your pre-peel care regimen will vary depending on the condition of your skin and your intended outcome. Some practitioners may encourage use of at-home chemical exfoliants and retinoids prior to your treatment. Others may urge you to discontinue use altogether. Ingredients such as retinoids will thin the skin and enhance penetration of the peeling agent. Personally I am choosing not to use too many active ingredients before my treatment. I want to avoid overloading my skin and increasing any risk of adverse effects. I encourage you to consult your practitioner to decide upon the best regime for your own needs.

The Chemical Peel for Acne Procedure

My practitioner advises avoiding any harsh products on skin the night before the treatment. Instead of applying my regular skincare routine, I only cleansed and applied a basic moisturiser; the Ordinary Natural Moisturising Factors.

Before undergoing the procedure, the practitioner will present you with a consent form you have to sign. The treatment itself is fairly quick. Whoever is doing your treatment will cleanse your skin, then wipe your face with alcohol before applying the peel. The smell of both alcohol and acid are pretty strong and do not dissipate until after the treatment.

The peel is applied to the areas of concern, such as the forehead, cheeks and nose. It is left on for a couple of minutes, during which the face begins to burn, tingle and feel hot. Before the burning sensation is almost too much to bear, the practitioner will neutralise the acid.

Following the treatment, you may apply moisturiser and SPF to the skin in order to protect it. Skin feels taut and tight the remainder of the day following the peel. It feels as though you can’t quite move it fully or be over expressive for fear your face might break. The feeling is similar to how it feels after washing with a foaming wash and then not applying moisturiser.

Side effects of a chemical peel

Side effects of chemical peels include stinging, dryness, peeling, flaking, and worsening of hyperpigmentation. Incidences of hyperpigmentation seem to be more prevalent in darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick skin type IV-VI). Certain medications such as antibiotics and oral contraceptives can also predispose you to developing hyperpigmentation. Due to risk of infection, immunocompromised patients or those susceptible to herpes virus may not want to undergo the treatment. Pregnant women and those allergic to aspirin will also not be able to have a salicylic acid peel. 

After the chemical peel

It is advised to reschedule treatments at regular 10-14 day intervals in order to see optimal results. Because a chemical peel essentially wounds your skin, it is sensible to use only soothing, bland moisturisers and skincare products for up to 48 hours after treatment. Avoid any vitamin A or glycolic acid products for 48 hours post peel, or until peeling resolves.

Once your skin has a chance to calm down, you are free to resume your regular skincare routine and reintroduce active ingredients. Remember that you are revealing a fresh, sensitive layer of skin by undergoing a chemical peel. It is therefore essential to protect skin with SPF after the treatment, to ensure you are not increasing your risk of sun damage. 

It is also advisable that you avoid any activities that will raise skin temperature; instead opt to keep skin cool. That means no hot showers, saunas, steam rooms, or even exercise for 72 hours post peel. Waxing and other forms of hair removal, as well as peeling or picking at the skin for up to a week post procedure may increase risk of dark spots and scarring.

My results: First Treatment

A mere 24 hours has elapsed since receiving my first treatment. So far, I notice a small reduction in blackheads on my nose. I have never personally had a huge issue with blackheads or large pores but I feel noticeable poreless. My skin seems to have a tighter than usual quality to it, likely due to the oil reducing properties of the acid. It almost feels slightly like sunburn.

Due to the rapid exfoliation, the peel also brings any blemishes to a head. I am experiencing mild peeling and flaking over some older blemishes and a slight darkening of the skin around them. I am choosing not to wear makeup yet, however none of these issues are too severe that it would severely impact my makeup application.

The peeling was truly at its most 48 hours post–peel.

Update: October 2019

I had my third chemical peel for acne at the end of September. I was initially hesitant to book my next treatment and had hence left so long between my second and third treatments. This is partly due to the fact that my skin has cleared significantly and for the most part the slough of active acne lesions I was experiencing have disappeared, aside from the odd hormonal blemish. I feared that since I usually experience intense breakouts after peels due to skin purging, it might disrupt my skin’s good recent behaviour. If you struggle with acne and your skin is finally behaving, it can be daunting to try any intense treatments.

Of course in the name of research, I am not one to back down and eventually braved it and returned for my third treatment. The third time round I noticed the stinging, burning sensation during the actual peel application process was significantly diminished. During the post-peel healing process, I did not erupt with quite as many blemishes, and experienced little to no peeling. My skin also felt a lot less tight than with the initial peels.

I am hoping that by my fourth treatment I will have few, if any, new breakouts from the peel. My skin has not been breaking out in clusters of acne lesions for around 8-12 weeks now, so I am praying things are once again on the up-and-up. The next action step will be to treat and heal all my post-blemish hyperpigmentation. Stay tuned for my next post all about how to clear dark spots and hyperpigmentation. For more on how I keep breakouts under control, see this blog post.

At-home treatments

Before embarking upon a professional chemical peel for acne, you will want to try milder at-home exfoliants first. If your skin is not accustomed to the action of chemical exfoliants, I highly suggest starting with at-home, low strength exfoliants before transitioning to more aggressive professional treatments. For daily use, I recommend salicylic acid products such as Paula’s Choice 2% BHA.

I would also suggest The Ordinary 2% Salicylic Acid Masque, which also contains charcoal and clay to remove impurities, as another treatment when your skin is feeling particularly congested.

For a slightly stronger peel, The Ordinary 30% AHA and 2% BHA Peeling Solution is effective and affordable. It is a red solution that you leave on for 10 minutes and then wash off. This is the highest strength I feel comfortable with using at home. Any stronger and urge you to seek professional assistance from a skin specialist. 

If you have never before used salicylic acid and you are a little more sensitive, a rinse-off face wash is also a good way to introduce it to your routine. I recommend the Inkey List Salicylic Acid cleanser.

If you are not considering a chemical peel yet, but would like more advice for clearing blemishes, make sure to read these blog posts:

How to get rid of blackheads for good

Top Acne Supplements for Naturally Clear Skin

Essential Tips for Oily Skin

The Complete Guide to Salicylic Acid

The Complete Guide to Glycolic Acid

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

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Top 5 Skincare Ingredients to Treat Acne

I have struggled with acne to one degree or another for around a decade now. Over time, I grew tired and frustrated of being constantly referred from one professional to another. No one seemed to offer solid advice beyond issuing an antibiotic prescription. For years my skincare regimen consisted of the same predictable prescription tablets and antibacterial face scrub (since banned by the FDA). It wasn’t until I took matters into my own hands, out of desperation and frustration, that I began to see improvements in my skin. It was a painful process but in my own research, I found skincare ingredients to treat acne, and not just cover it up.

After much trial and error over the years, I have narrowed down my top 5 skincare ingredients to treat acne. These are the most effective skincare ingredients to treat acne that I have found, with astounding results. All of these ingredients are topical, and most are available over the counter.

1. Salicylic acid.

I have sung the praises of BHAs in numerous blog posts. As someone who has battled with acne, it is an ingredient I strongly recommend. I will say however, that if you struggle with more severe cystic acne, salicylic acid will likely not be a cure-all. But for people with mild to moderate breakouts, it is certainly a tool you need in your acne kit.

Salicylic acid is the main type of beta hydroxy acid. It is lipophilic (or “oil-loving”), meaning it is solutble in oils and fats. This enables it to penetrate the pore and remove excess sebum. It encourages exfoliation, skin cell turnover and decongests pores. This prevents follicles from becoming clogged with dead skin cells and excess oil. As a derivative of aspirin, it is anti-inflammatory and can calm inflammation caused by breakouts and exfoliation.

If you want more information about salicylic acid, the best products, its properties and uses, I have written an entire blog post about salicylic acid.

I would highly recommend a leave-on salicylic acid exfoliant such as this 2% BHA solution. It is one of my favourite salicylic acid products and makes a huge difference. You will wake up with radiant skin and clarified pores. 

2. Benzoyl Peroxide.

A blocked pore creates an oxygen free environment. It cultivates the ideal conditions for P Acnes bacteria to grow and thrive. Benzoyl peroxide introduces oxygen into the follicle and kills the bacteria causing the breakout. This makes it the perfect spot treatment to get rid of a pimple quickly.

Let me tell you, that if you feel that under-the-skin painful pimple threatening to surface, benzoyl peroxide works wonders. Oftentimes, when I feel a breakout coming on, just dabbing a little 5% BPO onto the area will do the trick. Even if you just want your pimple to clear more quickly, benzoyl peroxide will help that process. It will dry out your skin though, so make sure you keep the surrounding area moisturised. This prevents dry flaky areas of skin.

3. Azelaic Acid.

This is one of my favourite skincare ingredients to treat acne. It is the most underrated skincare ingredient when it comes to breakouts. You often hear about salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide for acne. But no one ever seems to give azelaic acid the necessary praise it deserves. Azelaic acid is conventionally used as a treatment for rosacea, and it is great for doing so. However, I have found from my own experience that it is a game changer when it comes to treating acne.

As an antibacterial agent, azelaic acid reduces the growth of bacteria in the follicle. It decreases inflammation and helps loosen the build-up of dead skin cells and oil. It is keratolytic and comedolytic, meaning it inhibits the formation of comedones by reducing the growth of keratin surface skin cells that pores and sebaceous glands.

The beauty of this ingredient is that, if you do struggle with redness and rosacea, you will see your skin greatly managed and more even. You will no longer wake up with a face that looks red and irritated, and there will be less inflammation overall to your skin. Unlike benzoyl peroxide, it will not cause excessively dry skin either. It’s a win all-round!

This azelaic acid suspension is inexpensive and highly effective. However, I do find that it does not last an awfully long time. For a more sophisticated formula, this azelaic acid + BHA treatment works wonders for breakouts, enlarged pores and blackheads. It has the added benefit of targeting dark spots and brightening the complexion.

4. Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, niacinamide has an anti-inflammatory effect. As inflammation causes oxidative damage to sebum, it leads to pimples. Applying niacinamide topically can reduce inflammation and decrease the likelihood of a blemish forming. It can also reduce moisture loss and regulate oil flow for those with excessively oily skin.

I have spoken about the benefits of niacinamide in my how to get rid of blackheads post and several other posts. This ingredient is one of my absolute favourite all-round skin restoring and protecting ingredients. While it is one of the best skincare ingredients to treat acne, it is also effective at balancing oily skin and and maintaining skin health. Whether my skin is behaving particularly well or I am experiencing an increase in blemishes, I try to incorporate this ingredient into my daily routine.

Effaclar Duo contains both niacinamide and salicylic acid to work double duty at battling breakouts. For an even greater boost of niacinamide, the 10% Niacinamide Booster contains a hefty dose of niacinamide along with vitamin C to help brighten any pesky post-acne marks.

5. Retinoic acid.

These are vitamin A derivatives. Aside from their anti-ageing benefits, they are gold standard skincare ingredients to treat acne with. There are several different options, from over the counter retinol, tretinoin, differin, tazarotene. Retinoids have hormone-like chemical messengers that bind to receptors in the cell. This alters the way cells behave. They promote cellular turnover of dead skin cells, making it harder for oil to clog pores. Thus, they keep sebaceous follicles free of comedones. Retinoids reduce oil production and also reduce acne associated inflammation.

While many retinol can work for combatting acne, Differin (or adapalene), was specifically formulated for acne treatment. This retinoid can be obtained by prescription in the UK and is readily available over the counter in the US.

Retinoids do sensitise skin so I would recommend slowly introducing them into your routine. In my previous post about Fall Skin Care Tips, I suggested reintroducing retinoids back into your routine during the Fall. Now that your sun exposure will likely be reducing over the cooler months, your retinol use can increase without so much sun sensitivity.

Caution: Do not overdo active ingredients

I want to emphasise that you should not overdo these skincare ingredients to treat acne. The active ingredients I have mentioned are effective but very potent. Before you go to happy town smothering every single one of these ingredients on your face at once, I urge you to pause. More is not more when it comes to active skincare ingredients. Piling on a number of strong topicals all at one go may not only be ineffective, but it may also exasperate your skin condition.

I have fallen into the trap of thinking that if a little is good, then more must be better. I bombarded my face with salicylic acid twice a day, along with retinoids daily, benzoyl peroxide on every inch of my face and so on. Not only did my acne not subside, but it only seemed to be getting worse no matter what I did.

Often acne arises as a result of excess inflammation showing up on your face. I would not recommend using such powerful ingredients all at one time due to the increased risk of irritation. In individuals with darker skin, this irritation can increase the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. In a future post I will be explaining how best you can safely and effectively use these ingredients and how best to incorporate them into your routine.

You can get your acne under control

I know how frustrating breakouts and acne can be. Trust me, I’ve been there. Even to this day, when I am pushing 22 years old, I experience breakouts. The truth is, acne is a multi-faceted skin condition with multiple causes and types. It does not necessarily have much to do with a numerical age.

Many times, people who have not experienced acne try to console you by saying you will grow out of it. As if one can snap their fingers when the clock strikes 12 on their 18^thbirthday and suddenly the clouds part and your skin clears. Unfortunately, that is not quite how it works.

With the proper treatments and skincare routine, you can keep your breakouts under control. While we can’t control hormonal or dysbiosis-related breakouts with skincare products alone, proper skincare will unquestionably make a difference.

In the future I will be doing more posts on how to manage hormonal and other types of breakouts too so remember to Subscribe for when I release those articles. 

For more skin care advice:

How to get rid of blackheads for good

Essential Skin Care and Makeup Tips for Oily Skin

The Complete Guide to Salicylic Acid Skincare

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. Unauthorised use and/or duplication of this material is strictly prohibited.

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Guide to Salicylic Acid Skincare

Whether you deal with recurring acne, unsightly zits, or even the occasional stubborn blemish, it is likely you have been on the pursuit of a solution to your skincare woes at one point or another. You have searched for a particular product or ingredient to help you deal with your blemishes. In your quest for a solution, the ingredient salicylic acid may have been brought to your attention a number of times. Indeed, it is a rather ubiquitous ingredient in the acne-fighting sphere. You may have seen it often enough by now, that the mere sight of a new spot triggers a signal to reach for your salicylic acid skincare products. But, the question remains: what is salicylic acid skincare exactly? And more importantly, what is it doing in our skincare products?

In this article I am going to be giving you the complete guide to everything you need to know about salicylic acid skincare and the function of this ingredient in our skin.

What is salicylic acid?

Salicylic acid is an organic compound also known as a beta hydroxy acid (or BHA) in the skincare realm.

No, organic in this case does not mean that it has been grown without pesticides by a yogi/farmer hybrid, using animal excrements for fertiliser. In the case of organic chemical compounds, organic simply means it contains carbon.

Salicylic acid is used in various industries, from pharmaceuticals and medicine to food preservatives, dyes, pesticides and perfumes. For the purpose of this post we will be focusing on salicylic acid skincare application.

Here’s where the science part comes in, so stay with me. This is the chemical structure of salicylic acid:

As you can see above, there is a carboxyl and a hydroxyl group directly attached to an aromatic benzene ring (the ring with the OH). This makes it not only a beta hydroxy acid but also a phenolic aromatic acid. It is the structure of salicylic acid that makes it so effective at tackling spots.

What is a BHA?

BHAs contain a carboxylic acid functional group and a hydroxyl functional group, separated by two carbon atoms. This is what differs it from an alpha hydroxy acid, which is separated by only one carbon atom.

Have I lost you yet? Stay with me because we’re on to something.

The extra carbon atom makes beta hydroxy acids oil soluble. This readiness to dissolve in oil makes salicylic acid adept at penetrating the pore lining and effectively de-clogging pores. BHAs are thus able to penetrate deeper than AHAs. If you are interested in how BHAs differ from AHAs, read this article about Salicylic Acid vs. Glycolic Acid. 

What is a common denominator when it comes to many people facing acne? Excess oil in the skin and pore. Salicylic acid is miscible with the oils and lipids in the sebaceous glands, which is why we so frequently tout it as an acne saviour.

Are you starting to see the connection?

Salicylic Acid Skincare is Anti-inflammatory

Naturally derived from sources such as willow bark, sweet birch and various other plants, salicylic acid can also be synthetically produced. Salicylic acid is a precursor to the synthesis of aspirin, a pain-relieving, anti-inflammatory analgesic. It is likely that we have all taken an aspirin or some other form of NSAIDs for pain relief at some point in our life, so I am sure you are familiar with the drug.

It is by no coincidence that salicylic acid shares the anti-inflammatory properties of aspirin. As an anti-inflammatory agent, it aids in calming the inflammation that comes along with breakouts. Soothing inflamed skin is vital in the battle against acne.

As well as being anti-inflammatory, salicylic acid exhibits antibacterial activity. Acne can be brought about by the proliferation of P.acnes bacteria in the skin. Salicylic acid skincare products therefore aid in combatting this bacteria.

Exfoliating Action of Salicylic Acid Skincare

Salicylic acid is a keratolytic and comedolytic agent. This simply means that it can soften keratin in skin, loosen skin cells and cause them to shed. It will prohibit the formation of comedones and blemishes and prevent the build-up of dead skin cells in follicles. This action makes it an efficacious chemical exfoliant.

Unlike a face scrub or physical exfoliant that sloughs away dead skin cells by manual abrasion, chemical exfoliants encourage cell turnover by use of certain chemical “active ingredients”. If you purchase salicylic acid skincare products in the USA, you will see the ingredient under the “active ingredients” section of the label. The label will also indicate the percentage of the ingredient used. This is because in larger dosages, it can be classified as a drug.

As well as excess oiliness, the abnormal sticking together of skin cells is a cause of acne. This results in clogged pores and the formation of blackheads, cysts, nodules, the works. As a desmolytic agent, salicylic acid loosens the cohesion between epidermal skin cells, leading to the sloughing away of dead skin cells. The dissolving of this “glue” between skin cells helps to prevent blockages within the follicle.

Can it help clear cystic acne?

It is worth noting that although salicylic acid skincare can help to prevent the formation of acne cysts due to its pore-clearing benefits, it is not so effective at actually getting rid of cystic acne once formed. Rather, it is better for dealing with blackheads and whiteheads. If you want to know exactly how to deal with blackheads, read this post on how to get rid of blackheads.

To a certain extent, salicylic acid skincare can help calm the inflammation brought about by the blemish. However, those struggling with cystic acne or severe cases of acne would need alternative means of solving their skin issues. Take it from someone who knows: plain old salicylic acid skincare products won’t cut it.

And let’s not forget, salicylic acid is also an acid. Something is classed as acidic when it has a pH below 7. Which means it needs a low pH to be effective at exfoliation.

Bonus tip: because it encourages skin cell turnover, salicylic acid is also used in the treatment of conditions like dandruff and psoriasis.

Can salicylic acid help with anti-ageing?

Although AHAs like glycolic acid are more so renowned for their anti-ageing benefits, salicylic acid skincare products can also helpful in revealing younger, more radiant skin. This is due to its ability to remove the skin cells of the epidermis to uncover the younger skin beneath. The exfoliation process helps to diminish the look of fine lines and pigmentation.

Some will regard salicylic acid as collagen stimulating, and you could say that it is anti-ageing in this respect. There is however, an emerging school of thought that although acid exfoliants give an instant gratification effect, the overuse of such acids can have an unfavourable effect in the long term. The instant plumping and radiance of your skin is instead thought to be an increase in swelling of the epidermis. It is your skin’s response to a “wound”, rather than the promotion of new collagen. This may invariably lead to accelerated ageing, which is what we were trying to avoid in the first place.

In my previous article about travel skin care, I made the point about not exfoliating or overusing active ingredients before travel so as not to weaken the skin barrier. I do believe that the overuse of acids in skincare actually has the potential to impair skin barrier function. Removing this superficial protective layer could potentially overexpose skin to environmental aggressors and free radical damage. Click here for more information about free radical damage.

Some signs of over exfoliation include skin dehydration, redness and irritation, dry patches, skin tautness, increased sensitivity and acne flare ups.

Can everyone use salicylic acid?

If you are new to salicylic acid, I would recommend starting a couple of times per week. You can then build up your tolerance to more regular use. For those with extremely sensitive skin, you can always do a patch test first on your arm to see how your skin reacts.

There are varying percentages available on the market. If you have never used a product containing salicylic acid, you may wish to start at a lower dose. As your skin becomes acclimated to the ingredient, you may start increasing the percentage.

As I explain in this article about glycolic acid, salicylic acid has not been shown to induce the same level of sensitivity to the sun as glycolic acid. Read this post for more sun damage information and how to prevent sun damaged skin.

Because of its close relation to aspirin, salicylic acid is not an ingredient you want to be using during pregnancy. Use of aspirin during pregnancy has been linked to birth defects, miscarriage and other complications. So, to my pregnant ladies, put your acid exfoliants on hold for 9 months or so while you’re growing your little bubba.

How often should you use salicylic acid?

The frequency of use depends on a number of factors. How tolerant is your skin to the ingredient? How much do you feel you need to exfoliate? What is the state of your skin and prevalence of blackheads and blemishes? What is your skin type?

Some people are able to use 4% salicylic acid products twice a day with no issue while others limit their use to once a week. Some people may prefer a higher percentage, more potent leave-on exfoliant. Others may find that leave-on acids are too harsh on their skin and prefer a rinse-off formula.

During the period of time in which I had severe cystic acne lesions, I was desperately bombarding my skin with every anti-acne ingredient I could find. I did not understand why the condition of my acne was becoming worse and worse. It turns out, I am someone who benefits more from occasional use of salicylic acid rather than daily use. However, when I find my skin is more congested, I do like to ramp up my usage.

Is salicylic acid safe?

Salicylic acid is perfectly safe to use in OTC products. Applying excessive amounts of salicylic acid to the body can result in salicylate poisoning. I wouldn’t say this is something you really have to be concerned about under regular circumstances as toxicity from salicylic acid is extremely rare. Just as I have reiterated time and time again in my articles, the dose makes the poison. So as long as you’re not dousing yourself in the stuff and overdoing it, you should be fine.

I would also like to point out that because salicylic acid is closely related to aspirin, you will want to steer clear of this ingredient if you have an allergy to aspirin. 

As I always say, we are all individual. Everyone has their own specific dose that will suit them. There is no cookie cutter approach to anything. Whether it is diet, skin care, exercise, we all have individual needs. It is therefore critical to get to know your skin and your triggers and tailor your routine to your own needs.

What are the best salicylic acid products?

I typically use leave-on salicylic acid products with a 2% concentration. Salicylic acid is available in leave-on and rinse-off formulas. It can be used in place of, or after a toner as an “acid toning” step. You can get salicylic acid lotions, face mists, face washes, in spot treatments, moisturiser, and high strength peels.

In an upcoming article I will be doing a complete rundown of all the very best salicylic acid products on the market, for every skin type and need. You already know I have your back and I am working on that post. 😉 So keep your eyes peeled for that article because you don’t want to miss it.

Salicylic Acid Products I Am Loving

Clinique Clarifying Lotion – This is a classic leave-on exfoliant. I have used this for years and found it does not aggravate my skin and is gentle enough for daily use. Swipe on after cleanser and before moisturiser and you are good to go. You can also find the Clinique Clarifying Lotion on Amazon.

COSRX BHA Power Liquid – If you read my previous K-beauty skincare article, I introduced you to this line of skincare. The concentration of BHA in this product is 4% so it is a little more for the BHA aficionado. 

La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo – This hero product from La Roche Posay will keep blackheads and spots at bay. Other ingredients like zinc and niacinamide also help maintain a clear complexion. La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo on Amazon.

Paulas Choice 2% BHA Liquid – You cannot go wrong with this leave-on exfoliant. Swipe it on after your toner. It does not irritate skin and is gentle enough to be used daily. It contains no sensitising ingredients and has the optimal pH for maximum effectiveness. Highly recommend. 

Final Thoughts

Salicylic acid is a prominent skincare ingredient for good reason. It will help clarify sebaceous glands, keep blemishes at bay, encourage skin cell turnover and resolve enlarged pores.

I hope that this guide to salicylic acid skincare was informative and that it answered all the questions you had. If you have any other questions you would like answered, feel free to leave a comment below and I will be happy to get back to you. I may even just write a future article dedicated to your query.

Please share this information so that we can get the facts out about salicylic acid skincare. Feel free to follow my Pinterest boards for where I share more skin tips and some of my favourite articles from around the web. You can also pin this article so that you can refer back to it in the future. And don’t forget to subscribe to our newsletter and updates from the blog!

For more Skin Science Articles:

Complete Guide To Glycolic Acid for Glowing Skin

Everything You Need To Know About Vitamin C To Achieve Younger Skin

The Everything Guide to Hyaluronic Acid In Skincare

What does UV radiation actually do to your skin and why use SPF?

Do you use salicylic acid skincare on a regular basis? What is your favourite salicylic acid skincare product to use?

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. All opinions are my own.

References:

Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, p.455.

Kornhauser, A., Wei, R., Yamaguchi, Y., Coelho, S., Kaidbey, K., Barton, C., Takahashi, K., Beer, J., Miller, S. and Hearing, V. (2009). The effects of topically applied glycolic acid and salicylic acid on ultraviolet radiation-induced erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation in human skin. Journal of Dermatological Science, 55(1), pp.10-17.

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