The Causes of Acne

So, why do we get pimples? As part of the ‘How To Get Rid Of Acne’ Series on my YouTube channel, I created this video on the causes of breakouts. In this video I explain what acne is, how it forms, and the factors that contribute towards acne. I give a holistic and science-based perspective to treating skin conditions and the importance of investigating the underlying issues that may be inducing them. Whether it’s stress-induced, fungal or cystic acne – knowing the cause of your breakouts can get you a step closer to overcoming your skin woes.

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Top 5 Skincare Ingredients to Treat Acne

I have struggled with acne to one degree or another for around a decade now. Over time, I grew tired and frustrated of being constantly referred from one professional to another. No one seemed to offer solid advice beyond issuing an antibiotic prescription. For years my skincare regimen consisted of the same predictable prescription tablets and antibacterial face scrub (since banned by the FDA). It wasn’t until I took matters into my own hands, out of desperation and frustration, that I began to see improvements in my skin. It was a painful process but in my own research, I found skincare ingredients to treat acne, and not just cover it up.

After much trial and error over the years, I have narrowed down my top 5 skincare ingredients to treat acne. These are the most effective skincare ingredients to treat acne that I have found, with astounding results. All of these ingredients are topical, and most are available over the counter.

1. Salicylic acid.

I have sung the praises of BHAs in numerous blog posts. As someone who has battled with acne, it is an ingredient I strongly recommend. I will say however, that if you struggle with more severe cystic acne, salicylic acid will likely not be a cure-all. But for people with mild to moderate breakouts, it is certainly a tool you need in your acne kit.

Salicylic acid is the main type of beta hydroxy acid. It is lipophilic (or “oil-loving”), meaning it is solutble in oils and fats. This enables it to penetrate the pore and remove excess sebum. It encourages exfoliation, skin cell turnover and decongests pores. This prevents follicles from becoming clogged with dead skin cells and excess oil. As a derivative of aspirin, it is anti-inflammatory and can calm inflammation caused by breakouts and exfoliation.

If you want more information about salicylic acid, the best products, its properties and uses, I have written an entire blog post about salicylic acid.

I would highly recommend a leave-on salicylic acid exfoliant such as this 2% BHA solution. It is one of my favourite salicylic acid products and makes a huge difference. You will wake up with radiant skin and clarified pores. 

2. Benzoyl Peroxide.

A blocked pore creates an oxygen free environment. It cultivates the ideal conditions for P Acnes bacteria to grow and thrive. Benzoyl peroxide introduces oxygen into the follicle and kills the bacteria causing the breakout. This makes it the perfect spot treatment to get rid of a pimple quickly.

Let me tell you, that if you feel that under-the-skin painful pimple threatening to surface, benzoyl peroxide works wonders. Oftentimes, when I feel a breakout coming on, just dabbing a little 5% BPO onto the area will do the trick. Even if you just want your pimple to clear more quickly, benzoyl peroxide will help that process. It will dry out your skin though, so make sure you keep the surrounding area moisturised. This prevents dry flaky areas of skin.

3. Azelaic Acid.

This is one of my favourite skincare ingredients to treat acne. It is the most underrated skincare ingredient when it comes to breakouts. You often hear about salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide for acne. But no one ever seems to give azelaic acid the necessary praise it deserves. Azelaic acid is conventionally used as a treatment for rosacea, and it is great for doing so. However, I have found from my own experience that it is a game changer when it comes to treating acne.

As an antibacterial agent, azelaic acid reduces the growth of bacteria in the follicle. It decreases inflammation and helps loosen the build-up of dead skin cells and oil. It is keratolytic and comedolytic, meaning it inhibits the formation of comedones by reducing the growth of keratin surface skin cells that pores and sebaceous glands.

The beauty of this ingredient is that, if you do struggle with redness and rosacea, you will see your skin greatly managed and more even. You will no longer wake up with a face that looks red and irritated, and there will be less inflammation overall to your skin. Unlike benzoyl peroxide, it will not cause excessively dry skin either. It’s a win all-round!

This azelaic acid suspension is inexpensive and highly effective. However, I do find that it does not last an awfully long time. For a more sophisticated formula, this azelaic acid + BHA treatment works wonders for breakouts, enlarged pores and blackheads. It has the added benefit of targeting dark spots and brightening the complexion.

4. Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, niacinamide has an anti-inflammatory effect. As inflammation causes oxidative damage to sebum, it leads to pimples. Applying niacinamide topically can reduce inflammation and decrease the likelihood of a blemish forming. It can also reduce moisture loss and regulate oil flow for those with excessively oily skin.

I have spoken about the benefits of niacinamide in my how to get rid of blackheads post and several other posts. This ingredient is one of my absolute favourite all-round skin restoring and protecting ingredients. While it is one of the best skincare ingredients to treat acne, it is also effective at balancing oily skin and and maintaining skin health. Whether my skin is behaving particularly well or I am experiencing an increase in blemishes, I try to incorporate this ingredient into my daily routine.

Effaclar Duo contains both niacinamide and salicylic acid to work double duty at battling breakouts. For an even greater boost of niacinamide, the 10% Niacinamide Booster contains a hefty dose of niacinamide along with vitamin C to help brighten any pesky post-acne marks.

5. Retinoic acid.

These are vitamin A derivatives. Aside from their anti-ageing benefits, they are gold standard skincare ingredients to treat acne with. There are several different options, from over the counter retinol, tretinoin, differin, tazarotene. Retinoids have hormone-like chemical messengers that bind to receptors in the cell. This alters the way cells behave. They promote cellular turnover of dead skin cells, making it harder for oil to clog pores. Thus, they keep sebaceous follicles free of comedones. Retinoids reduce oil production and also reduce acne associated inflammation.

While many retinol can work for combatting acne, Differin (or adapalene), was specifically formulated for acne treatment. This retinoid can be obtained by prescription in the UK and is readily available over the counter in the US.

Retinoids do sensitise skin so I would recommend slowly introducing them into your routine. In my previous post about Fall Skin Care Tips, I suggested reintroducing retinoids back into your routine during the Fall. Now that your sun exposure will likely be reducing over the cooler months, your retinol use can increase without so much sun sensitivity.

Caution: Do not overdo active ingredients

I want to emphasise that you should not overdo these skincare ingredients to treat acne. The active ingredients I have mentioned are effective but very potent. Before you go to happy town smothering every single one of these ingredients on your face at once, I urge you to pause. More is not more when it comes to active skincare ingredients. Piling on a number of strong topicals all at one go may not only be ineffective, but it may also exasperate your skin condition.

I have fallen into the trap of thinking that if a little is good, then more must be better. I bombarded my face with salicylic acid twice a day, along with retinoids daily, benzoyl peroxide on every inch of my face and so on. Not only did my acne not subside, but it only seemed to be getting worse no matter what I did.

Often acne arises as a result of excess inflammation showing up on your face. I would not recommend using such powerful ingredients all at one time due to the increased risk of irritation. In individuals with darker skin, this irritation can increase the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. In a future post I will be explaining how best you can safely and effectively use these ingredients and how best to incorporate them into your routine.

You can get your acne under control

I know how frustrating breakouts and acne can be. Trust me, I’ve been there. Even to this day, when I am pushing 22 years old, I experience breakouts. The truth is, acne is a multi-faceted skin condition with multiple causes and types. It does not necessarily have much to do with a numerical age.

Many times, people who have not experienced acne try to console you by saying you will grow out of it. As if one can snap their fingers when the clock strikes 12 on their 18^thbirthday and suddenly the clouds part and your skin clears. Unfortunately, that is not quite how it works.

With the proper treatments and skincare routine, you can keep your breakouts under control. While we can’t control hormonal or dysbiosis-related breakouts with skincare products alone, proper skincare will unquestionably make a difference.

In the future I will be doing more posts on how to manage hormonal and other types of breakouts too so remember to Subscribe for when I release those articles. 

For more skin care advice:

How to get rid of blackheads for good

Essential Skin Care and Makeup Tips for Oily Skin

The Complete Guide to Salicylic Acid Skincare

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. Unauthorised use and/or duplication of this material is strictly prohibited.

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The post Skincare Ingredients To Treat Acne appeared first on Shannon Feetham.

How to Get Rid of Blackheads: 10 Foolproof Ways

Although blackheads are stereotypically associated with hormonal teenagers, most people will experience the occasional blackhead. Small or large, we all have pores. Even if your skin is blemish-free most of the time, you likely have experienced a blackhead before. While I have struggled with acne, I have luckily not had a severe issue with blackheads or enlarged pores. I do believe that this is largely due to the ingredients I incorporate in my routine. In this blog post, I will be explaining how to get rid of blackheads for good.

Do not fall for gimmicks when it comes to skin

There are a number of moderately unsafe measures circling the internet, claiming to be cures for blackheads. Such measures include slathering a thick layer of Vaseline over the skin then wrapping your face in bubble wrap, and other borderline insane DIY methods.

Let me start off by saying, please do not resort to these methods to get rid of blackheads. Wrapping your face in cling film while you sleep will not only breed bacteria, but it could even cause asphyxiation if executed poorly. And applying pure petroleum jelly to acne-prone individuals can be counterproductive. I would not recommend anyone with oily skin to slather Vaseline on their face, particularly the acne-prone T-zone.

Like I regularly preach, I would rather see you put in place a sustainable plan that will bring long-term results. If you want to know how to get rid of blackheads, it can be tempting to turn to gimmicky solutions. However, quick fixes are temporary and will only disappoint you further down the line.

This blog post explains how to get rid of blackheads effectively, without compromising your skin’s health and safety. On this site, we are all about long term, sustainable gains, because that is how you will maintain results. We are not about gimmicks, hoaxes or quick fixes.

Why blackheads occur

To understand how to get rid of blackheads, we should first understand how they occur. To put it in plain terms, blackheads form when the hair follicle becomes clogged. A build up of sebum, dead skin cells and bacteria collect in the pore. When this material in a clogged pore is open to air, it oxidises and turns black. Hence the name blackhead.

1. How to get rid of blackheads with salicylic acid.

I would strongly recommend the regular use of salicylic acid as a first port of call to banish blackheads. In my Complete Guide to Salicylic Acid, I broke down all the benefits and uses for salicylic acid and explained the mechanism in detail, so make sure to check it out.

In short, salicylic acid dissolves the intercellular glue that holds the epithelium together. It removes the debris within the pore and clears out the pore lining. Regular use will lead to a reduction in blackheads and a more even skin surface.

You can opt for salicylic acid containing face washes, leave-on exfoliants, moisturisers or serums. They will help to prevent the deposit of dead skin cells, debris and oil within the follicle so that it will not form a blackhead. It is important to use these products regularly, to prevent the follicle plugging up again.

Paula’s Choice 2% BHA is a liquid exfoliant that is gentle enough to use everyday but effective enough to see real results. You can also get 2% BHA worldwide here.

COSRX Salicylic Acid Cleanser contains salicylic acid, willow bark and tea tree oil. These ingredients all have antibacterial properties and remove dirt and debris from skin. Read this COSRX review for more of my skincare recommendations from this Korean brand.

Alpha-H Clear Skin Face Wash contains salicylic acid, niacinamide and tea tree oil for antibacterial, pore clarifying effects. It also contains soothing aloe vera.

For many more salicylic acid skincare product recommendations, make sure to take a look at my Complete Guide to Salicylic Acid.

2. Extractions.

If you are struggling with pesky blackheads and no amount of topical skincare is making a significant difference, you may want to opt to have your blackheads professionally extracted. Perhaps you have never actively taken precautions against blackheads and have accumulated a number of blackheads and visible pores. Having professional extractions done can quickly and effectively cut the work you will personally have to do to tackle your blackheads.

It is important to see someone who actually knows what they are doing, as I have had “facials” carried out with improper extractions that resulted in noticeable marks and indentations. Going for a professional extraction can leave you with a clean slate that you can later maintain through adequate skin care.

For those who aren’t overly enthusiastic about having their blackheads extracted by someone else, there are at-home tools that you can use to extract blemishes. Please use these tools with caution and make sure that you thoroughly pay attention to the instructions to avoid causing skin harm. If you are not confident in your abilities, seek guidance from an aesthetician.

3. How to get rid of blackheads with retinoids.

Retinol and other ingredients in the retinoid family have keratolytic and comedolytic properties. This means that they encourage turnover of the outer layer of skin. They not only increase the rate of skin cell turnover, but normalise the rate of skin shedding. In turn, this reduces the formation of clogged pores and decreases sebum production. Ultimately, this leads to more refined pores and banishes blackheads.

There are a number of retinoids available both over the counter and by prescription. Regular skincare available over the counter uses retinol and other derivatives such as retinaldehyde and other retinyl esters. There are also a number of retinoids available by prescription such as tretinoin, tazarotene and adapalene, which is now available OTC in the US.

Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Serum not only contains retinol but also niacinamide and ferulic acid for extra antioxidant protection. Make sure to read my post about antioxidants. This product retextures skin and has powerful anti-ageing benefits to boot. You can also get Dr Dennis Gross worldwide here with free shipping.

In my previous Fall Skin Care post I recommend a number of other retinol products. Make sure to check that out for a full list of recommendations. It is worth noting that some people will prefer OTC retinol while others will prefer prescription.

If you are sensitive to retinol or would like a natural alternative, I have a post all about the most effective natural alternative to retinol.

4. How to get rid of blackheads with niacinamide.

Topical vitamin B3, or niacinamide, helps to improve the look of enlarged pores. It has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties and will reduce the oiliness of skin. This means it will help to keep your blackheads at bay and your pores clear.

La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo is a cure-all for blemishes. It contains niacinamide and salicylic acid and is great for oily skin. It can be applied daily as a moisturiser to combat blackheads and blemishes.

COSRX Blackhead Power Liquid contains BHAs, niacinamide and willow bark to decongest pores and prevent the formation of blackheads. As the name would suggest, it is quite literally the ultimate blackhead elimination solution. 

The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc contains a hefty dose of niacinamide for visible results. You will experience a decrease in blemishes and evenness of skin tone.

5. How to get rid of blackheads with clay masks.

Clay masks can play a role in helping to draw out impurities and effectively de-clog your skin from blackheads. Although pore strips are oddly satisfying to use, clay masks are a much gentler way to eliminate blackheads without harshly stripping them away. The minerals in clay will pull away the sebum and debris from within the pore and are extremely helpful for oily skin.

You can opt for pre-made clay masks that come in a tube, or powdered clay that you have to add liquid to. Depending on the clay you get, you may need to use either water or apple cider vinegar. This is dependent on the pH of the clay mask. If your clay of choice is very alkaline, you will want to add some raw distilled apple cider vinegar. If it is not, water will be just fine.

Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay contains 100% pure bentonite clay. It is rich in minerals that absorb and remove toxins and impurities from the skin. This clay should be mixed with apple cider vinegar before being applied to the face. 

Innisfree Pore Clay Mask uses volcanic clay from Jeju Island in Korea. It will help to make pores feel noticeably tighter, remove impurities and control excess oil.

If you are lazy like me, and do not want to have to deal with the clean-up, you might want to opt for a ready-made mask. This Origins mask contains clay as well as charcoal for additional detoxifying benefits. And this La Roche Posay Clay mask contains kaolin clay and argilla to help with oily skin. Clinique Purifying Charcoal Clay Mask contains kaolin and has silica beads for an additional gentle exfoliation.

6. How to get rid of blackheads with enzyme exfoliation.

If you are allergic to aspirin and cannot use salicylic acid, you may prefer exfoliating enzymes instead. This is also a viable choice if you want a break from chemical exfoliants a couple of times a week. Enzymes eat away at dead skin cells on the skin surface like little pac men. Because they are generally gentler than other modes of exfoliation, they are also a great choice for sensitive skin types.

I have an entire post on enzyme exfoliants coming up, so make sure to Subscribe to the Blog for that post.

Herbivore Brighten Glow Mask contains fruit enzymes, rice powder and micronised gemstones for a gentle exfoliation. This is a “clean beauty” line and is free of artificial fragrance and harsh preservatives. It is a beautiful line and this product contains natural brightening ingredients.

Peter Thomas Roth Pumpkin Enzyme Mask contains pumpkin enzymes and AHAs to combat the appearance of large pores. The combination of chemical and enzymatic exfoliation ensures you are sloughing off dead skin cells from all angles. Pumpkin Enzyme Mask shipped worldwide here.

Amorepacific Enzyme Peel contains papaya enzymes that gentle digest the dead surface skin cells and prevent the formation of clogged pores. 

Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel contains both pineapple and papaya enzymes, as well as niacinamide, seaweed extract and a number of antioxidants. Apply this ask a mask for 20 minutes and upon removal, your skin will appear visibly brighter and more polished. 

7. How to get rid of blackheads with chemical peels.

If you struggle with a great deal of blackheads and clogged pores, you may want to reach for the big guns and make an appointment for a chemical peel. A medical-grade chemical peel will up the ante from all the at-home modes of treatment. Because they are higher in strength than at-home chemical exfoliants, they are highly effective at eliminating stubborn blackheads that do not seem to disappear with any other treatment.

Chemical peels are a relatively intense mode of extraction. Typically in-office chemical peels use high strength glycolic and lactic acid. They cause the shedding of the superficial layers of skin and removal of lesions with impressive results. However they will induce skin sensitivity for a while afterwards. For the complete lowdown on glycolic acid, make sure to read my Glycolic Acid Skincare Guide.

8. Avoid certain ingredients.

Not only should you know how to get rid of blackheads, but you should also be aware of the ingredients to avoid so you can prevent blackheads forming. There are a number of ingredients you will want to avoid, in order to prevent clogged pores. As a rule of thumb, products labelled “non-comedogenic”, are less likely to clog pores. Examples of comedogenic ingredients are cocoa butter and isopropyl myristate.

One could dispute the validity of the comedogenic scale, disregarding it as outdated. In reality, different ingredients will cause different people to break out. What causes clogged pores in your friend may not necessarily elicit the same reaction in you. This is why it is so important to pay attention to your own skin’s cues. However, for those who are blackhead or acne prone, and are not extremely in tune with their skin needs yet, products labelled “non-comedogenic” may be a good place to start.

Many solid bar soaps are not ideal for use on the face. They do not tend to have an optimal pH for skin and are often too alkaline. The binders in these soaps that keep it in solid form can leave a film on the skin and prevent proper shedding of skin cells. Back in the day, when I first began on my skincare journey, I would use bar soaps all the time. I could not understand why my skin always felt so stripped after cleansing then extremely oily throughout the day.

Nowadays, there are a few well formulated bar soaps on the market, if you do prefer this mode of cleansing. This Drunk Elephant Juju Bar for instance is hydrating without being pore-clogging. It contains clay as well as bamboo powder to ensure dead skin cells are not being left on the skin surface. 

9. Eliminate blackheads with prescription tablets.

Prescription tablets are an option for those consistently struggling with severely clogged pores and blackheads. While I would always recommend at-home interventions as a first line of defence, I do recognise the emotional toll that blemishes have. The look of blackheads can be unsightly and incredibly frustrating. Particularly if you are trying your best to keep your skin clean and blemish free.

There are certain tablets available by prescription such as anti-androgens, antibiotics, birth control if you are female, or even isotretinoin. Most of these medications will decrease oil production and help prevent the formation of clogged pores. It will be up to your medical practitioner to decide on the best mode of action for you, so I cannot advise on which one you should be using. I do urge you to turn to these as strictly a last resort, unless you are also experiencing severe acne alongside blackheads and clogged pores.

10. Alternative medicine to get rid of blackheads.

Ingredients such as tea tree oil, basil oil and green tea have been shown to have a favourable effect on blackheads and clogged pores. This can be attributed to the antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity of these natural ingredients. If you would like to know how to get rid of blackheads by using more natural ingredients, let me know.

There is an abundance of alternative medicine ingredients, herbal remedies and supplements to help with skin issues. However, the list is a little too extensive to comprehensively cover in this post. In a future post I will gladly explain all the natural remedies that have been proven and are effective at combatting certain skin issues.

Blackheads are treatable

It is important to add that, no matter the condition of your skin or the amount of blackheads, these things can be solved. I know it is not helpful to be told not to stress or worry about your skin condition, and it can be frustrating. But remember that you are probably your worst critic. And it is likely that you are more bothered by the appearance of your own pores and blackheads than anyone around you.

As you can see from this post, there are things you can do to mitigate the situation. Just by implementing a few of the aforementioned points on how to get rid of blackheads, the condition of your skin and pores can be significantly improved before you know it. 

I hope you found this post about how to get rid of blackheads, informative. Please share this post with anyone you think can benefit from this information. Blackheads, oily skin, clogged pores and acne can all be pesky, but once we have the tools to know how to get rid of blackheads, acne and the like, we can tackle the issue head on. I create these posts to help open your eyes to the solutions available.

Subscribe to the Blog for more skin care, beauty and wellness advice. As a bonus, I will give you instant access to my Skincare Essentials Checklist too!

For more skincare advice, visit these posts:

Essential Fall Skin Care Tips

10 Travel Skin Care Tips You Never Knew

The Complete Guide to Salicylic Acid

9 Things To Consider Before Starting A New Skincare Routine

How to Properly Layer Skincare Products

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. All opinions are my own. Unauthorised use and/or duplication of this material is strictly prohibited.

The post How to Get Rid of Blackheads: 10 Foolproof Ways appeared first on Shannon Feetham.