Glycolic Acid Benefits

If you take even a remote interest in skincare, it is likely you have heard of glycolic acid. I have mentioned glycolic acid briefly in previous posts and have even recommended a number of glycolic acid products. In my last post about how to transition your skincare into Fall, I encouraged you to start looking at more chemical exfoliants. But I have not yet done a dedicated post on glycolic acid benefits. Hence, I decided to make one today. This post will be touching upon glycolic acid benefits, uses and what exactly glycolic acid is in skincare.

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What is glycolic acid?

As you would know from my previous post about BHAs, chemical exfoliants are a non-abrasive means of exfoliating without manually scrubbing skin. Glycolic acid is yet another type of acid, but instead of belonging to the beta hydroxy acid group, it belongs to a branch known as alpha hydroxy acids.

Glycolic acid is derived from plants like sugar cane. Of all AHA’s, glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight. This means it is able to penetrate skin easily. This readiness to penetrate skin also makes it the strongest AHA. It is used in a variety of skin peels at higher concentrations, and topical skincare at lower concentrations.

Glycolic Acid vs Salicylic Acid

Unlike BHA skincare which comprises only salicylic acid, AHAs comprise a number of acids. Such AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and mandelic acid. The most common AHA you will likely come across in skincare are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Although I have seen increasingly seen the other acids making more and more of an appearance.

In my previous Skin Science post about all things BHA, I explained that salicylic acid is soluble in oil and is therefore great for pore clarification. Unlike BHAs, AHAs are water soluble. BHAs are lipophilic, as explained in my previous salicylic acid post, whereas AHA’s are hydrophilic. This means that they are more adept at working on the skin surface, rather than deep within the pore lining.

Why use glycolic acid?

I prefer chemical exfoliation to scrubs and physical exfoliants because you are not causing the same level of inflammation from physical abrasion of your skin. In the past I would use harsh facial scrubs twice a day for my acne. This only further inflamed my skin and caused a great deal of redness and irritation.

Chemical exfoliants are a painless and more effective way of keeping acne in check and refining pores. Not to mention, you are getting all the additional glycolic acid benefits that I will touch on in this post. For those who have never used acid exfoliants before, the results can be almost instantaneous. Apply them and you are sure to wake up to a gorgeous, glowing complexion.

Glycolic acid benefits for acne and marks

Salicylic acid is a known hero for acne-prone skin. However, glycolic acid can also be very useful in the treatment of acne. In studies using higher strength glycolic peels have consistently shown a decrease in comedonic and nodular acne. The exfoliating action encourages skin cell turnover and prevents the plugging of follicles that lead to acne. It will further help to accelerate healing of those pesky post-acne marks left after a blemish has occurred.

Skin smoothing

Because you are consistently resurfacing skin and encouraging the shedding of old, dead skin cells from the surface, glycolic acid use results in smoother, improved skin texture. If you are experiencing dullness, glycolic acid can help you get your glow back. It will also diminish the appearance of enlarged pores. If you struggle with uneven skin texture, large pores, small bumps, or blemishes, you will benefit greatly from regular use of glycolic acid. It is also beneficial in conditions like keratosis pilaris and psoriasis.

Suitable for all skin types

While salicylic acid works wonders for oily skin, glycolic acid is greatly suited to drier skin types. The beauty of glycolic acid is it can be used by oily, combination, or dry skin alike. This means most people will be able to receive the glycolic acid benefits. It encourages collagen synthesis and increases skin’s natural moisturising factors. So, while over exfoliation can dry out skin, one of the great glycolic acid benefits is it can actually have a replenishing effect. Just don’t overdo it.

Anti-ageing benefits

Glycolic acid is probably the number one most widely used acid for anti-ageing. The accelerated collagen production and increased hyaluronic acid resulting from the application of glycolic acid makes it a firm favourite for diminishing the appearance of fine lines. Regular use of glycolic acid will result in a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles as it smooths the skin surface. It dissolves excess buildup of dead skin cells to reveal younger cells beneath. 

The ability to decrease visible fine lines makes it one of the most exciting glycolic acid benefits amongst skin anti agers. But notice I said ‘fine lines’. If you have already developed deep wrinkles, your results will be much more limited and you may wish to turn to in-office cosmetic interventions for greater results.

Fades dark spots

Glycolic acid helps fade post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, dark spots and melasma. This makes it highly versatile in treating all sorts of skin discolouration in those who struggle with everything from post acne marks to melasma to visible sun spots. If you are struggling with signs of sun damage, glycolic acid is proven to be highly effective in reducing visible signs of skin discolouration and hyperpigmentation.

Shedding the superficial layer of skin helps to resurface and speed up the fading of hyperpigmentation. Glycolic acid also has the ability to inhibit tyrosinase, which reduces melanin formation and lessens the appearance of dark spots. I went into a lot of detail about melanin and how dark spots form in this sun damage article.

Careful in the Sun

One caveat of glycolic acid is that it will increase skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Salicylic acid is not shown to increase sun sensitivity biomarkers. However, studies have consistently shown that the application of glycolic acid without properly protecting skin from UV radiation increases erythema (sunburn), DNA damage and sunburn cell formation. It is therefore important to be weary of your level sun exposure while using this ingredient.

If you are using glycolic acid products, you must be wearing a daily sunscreen to protect your skin from possible unfavourable side effects like burning and increased hyperpigmentation. While glycolic acid is great at fading your dark spots caused by excess sun exposure, it also has the potential to worsen them if you are not protecting your skin from further damage. So, to get maximum glycolic acid benefits, be mindful of your sun exposure. Read this facial sunscreen post about what to look for in a sunscreen.

How often to use glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is safe for use as much as your skin is able to tolerate it. The exact dose will be individual for everyone. You can start a couple of days a week and work your way up as you build tolerance. Be aware of how your skin is reacting. I began using a certain 30% glycolic acid and 2% salicylic acid peel a few times a week and my skin was showing signs of irritation. I found that I was having increased darkening on my upper lip that I had never before experienced. Since then I have had to be more diligent about my sunscreen application when I am using the product.

Some may find that using both an AHA and BHA product at the same can be too much for their skin. If this is the case for you, alternating between both acids may be the solution. Some may even find that they prefer using a BHA on certain parts of their face and AHAs elsewhere. If you struggle with blackheads for instance, you may wish to apply salycilic acid to your T zone and glycolic acid on the perimeters of your face. It is all dependent on your skin type and preferences.

Concentrations between 5% and 15% are most optimal for daily use. If your skin becomes uncomfortably itchy or burns, you know you are overdoing it. If your skin is extremely sensitive, you will want to patch test before using any type of strong acid on a regular basis. For most intense results, a medical spa or dermatologist can carry out high strength chemical peels on your skin. This is great for people with severe skin discolourations caused by cystic acne or other pigmentary lesions. Always consult a specialist before undergoing any high strength peels.

Best Glycolic Acid Skincare Products

There are a number of expertly formulated glycolic acid skincare products on the market. Here are links to some tried and true favourites:

Drunk Elephant Glycolic Night Serum – I recommended this product in my skincare you need from Sephora post (which you must have a look at if you have not already). I stand by this product completely. It contains a 12% AHA blend with 1% BHAs and will do wonders for your skin. 

Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Peel – These are two step pads in convenient individual packs. The exfoliant step has glycolic acid, followed by the anti-ageing step with retinol and vitamin C. Reveals your best, glowing complexion. 

First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads – Easy to use, pre-soaked pads with lactic and glycolic acid. Contains additional brightening ingredients for radiant skin.

Peter Thomas Roth 8% Glycolic Toner – The bottle has a convenient pump to dispense the product. The acid is at has a good pH to ensure effectiveness and includes soothinng ingredients such as aloe and allantoin. 

Alpha H Liquid Gold – There’s a reason this is called liquid gold. It contains 5% glycolic acid goodness, is not overly fragranced, and will deliver results. You won’t be disappointed.

Pixi Glow Tonic – Glow Tonic earned its name. Regular application of this product will leave your skin glowing, keep pores clear and brighten your complexion.Considering the amount you get in one bottle, it is good value for money. 

Paula’s Choice Smoothing Treatment – A blend of 10% AHAs with salicylic acid to target skin from all angles. Contains a variety of antioxidants and skin smoothing ingredients so you know you are getting maximum benefits from your products. Non irritating and can be used up to twice a day.

Glycolic Acid Products to Use Weekly

Drunk Elephant Sukari Babyfacial – This at-home facial peel contains 25% AHA and 2% BHA. It also contains a wonderful blend of antioxidants, hyaluronic acid and oils to replenish while resurfacing skin. Use it a couple of times a week and you are guaranteed to see a notable difference in skin texture, tone, clarity and skin radiance. 

The Ordinary 30% AHA + BHA Peeling Solution – In light of recent events and controversies, I am hesitant to recommend this brand. It is unfortunate the beauty industry currently has so much controversy surrounding certain companies. I will say from what I have seen, the way this company responds to customers is disappointing. However, I have purchased this product before and like to keep positive on my blog. I have not personally had a negative confrontation with the brand or its owner. I only ever purchase their products from sites like Amazon and Beauty Bay, not the Deciem site, so I cannot speak to that either. Because this brand is popular and affordable, I feel inclined to mention it. I know inquiring minds want to hear about others’ experience with the product.

This product does not have a tonne of bells and whistles aside from the AHA and BHA but it does the job, especially considering its price point. The high percentage of acid does cause quite a tingling sensation upon application unlike anything I have ever felt. It is intense but it works. I did see visibly smoother, brighter skin after use, which is pretty rare nowadays because I am so acclimatised to acid exfoliant use. It did however cause me increased sun sensitivity due to the high 32% concentration total acid used in the thick of Summer.

A word on alcohol in skincare

One point to consider is that some of these products do contain denatured alcohol. Not all alcohols are harmful. In fact, fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol can be beneficial for skin. However, denatured alcohol is one ingredient people tend to be weary about. It is often used as a solvent for ‘toning’ products. One could argue that the alcohol present in these products evaporates before even being able to cause significant harm to skin. If it is a concern to you, you may wish to dispense the product and waft it around a little on a cotton pad to wait for the alcohol to evaporate before applying. Regardless, these products are still highly efficacious and will deliver great results. 

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Glycolic Acid Benefits in a nutshell

I hope that this post is helpful in explaining glycolic acid benefits and that it demystified any questions you had regarding glycolic acid for skin. In summary, glycolic acid is a versatile chemical exfoliant. There are a number of glycolic acid benefits. It is suitable for most skin types from oily to dry. It can help with collagen production, decreasing the look of fine lines, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and blemishes. But remember to be diligent about sun protection while using glycolic acid. 

Make sure you Subscribe to the Blog for more skin care insights, skin science articles, and ingredient spotlights in upcoming posts. When you Subscribe, you will also get instant access to my Free Skincare Essentials Checklist. You are not going to want to miss the plethora of posts I have lined up for the blog. 

For more Skincare Ingredient Spotlight articles, check out these blog posts:

Salicylic Acid in Skincare 

Vitamin C for Brighter, Firmer skin

The Skin Benefits of Rosehip Oil 

The Natural Retinol Alternative You Need To Try

Hyaluronic Acid: The Complete Guide

What kind of results have you experienced with glycolic acid? Do you have any favourite glycolic acid products?

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This is post is not sponsored. All opinions are my own.

References:

Kornhauser, A. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, p.135.

Bernstein, E., Lee, J., Brown, D., Yu, R. and Van Scott, E. (2001). Glycolic Acid Treatment Increases Type I Collagen mRNA and Hyaluronic Acid Content of Human Skin. Dermatologic Surgery, 27(5), pp.429-433.