Guide to Salicylic Acid Skincare

Whether you deal with recurring acne, unsightly zits, or even the occasional stubborn blemish, it is likely you have been on the pursuit of a solution to your skincare woes at one point or another. You have searched for a particular product or ingredient to help you deal with your blemishes. In your quest for a solution, the ingredient salicylic acid may have been brought to your attention a number of times. Indeed, it is a rather ubiquitous ingredient in the acne-fighting sphere. You may have seen it often enough by now, that the mere sight of a new spot triggers a signal to reach for your salicylic acid skincare products. But, the question remains: what is salicylic acid skincare exactly? And more importantly, what is it doing in our skincare products?

In this article I am going to be giving you the complete guide to everything you need to know about salicylic acid skincare and the function of this ingredient in our skin.

What is salicylic acid?

Salicylic acid is an organic compound also known as a beta hydroxy acid (or BHA) in the skincare realm.

No, organic in this case does not mean that it has been grown without pesticides by a yogi/farmer hybrid, using animal excrements for fertiliser. In the case of organic chemical compounds, organic simply means it contains carbon.

Salicylic acid is used in various industries, from pharmaceuticals and medicine to food preservatives, dyes, pesticides and perfumes. For the purpose of this post we will be focusing on salicylic acid skincare application.

Here’s where the science part comes in, so stay with me. This is the chemical structure of salicylic acid:

As you can see above, there is a carboxyl and a hydroxyl group directly attached to an aromatic benzene ring (the ring with the OH). This makes it not only a beta hydroxy acid but also a phenolic aromatic acid. It is the structure of salicylic acid that makes it so effective at tackling spots.

What is a BHA?

BHAs contain a carboxylic acid functional group and a hydroxyl functional group, separated by two carbon atoms. This is what differs it from an alpha hydroxy acid, which is separated by only one carbon atom.

Have I lost you yet? Stay with me because we’re on to something.

The extra carbon atom makes beta hydroxy acids oil soluble. This readiness to dissolve in oil makes salicylic acid adept at penetrating the pore lining and effectively de-clogging pores. BHAs are thus able to penetrate deeper than AHAs. If you are interested in how BHAs differ from AHAs, read this article about Salicylic Acid vs. Glycolic Acid. 

What is a common denominator when it comes to many people facing acne? Excess oil in the skin and pore. Salicylic acid is miscible with the oils and lipids in the sebaceous glands, which is why we so frequently tout it as an acne saviour.

Are you starting to see the connection?

Salicylic Acid Skincare is Anti-inflammatory

Naturally derived from sources such as willow bark, sweet birch and various other plants, salicylic acid can also be synthetically produced. Salicylic acid is a precursor to the synthesis of aspirin, a pain-relieving, anti-inflammatory analgesic. It is likely that we have all taken an aspirin or some other form of NSAIDs for pain relief at some point in our life, so I am sure you are familiar with the drug.

It is by no coincidence that salicylic acid shares the anti-inflammatory properties of aspirin. As an anti-inflammatory agent, it aids in calming the inflammation that comes along with breakouts. Soothing inflamed skin is vital in the battle against acne.

As well as being anti-inflammatory, salicylic acid exhibits antibacterial activity. Acne can be brought about by the proliferation of P.acnes bacteria in the skin. Salicylic acid skincare products therefore aid in combatting this bacteria.

Exfoliating Action of Salicylic Acid Skincare

Salicylic acid is a keratolytic and comedolytic agent. This simply means that it can soften keratin in skin, loosen skin cells and cause them to shed. It will prohibit the formation of comedones and blemishes and prevent the build-up of dead skin cells in follicles. This action makes it an efficacious chemical exfoliant.

Unlike a face scrub or physical exfoliant that sloughs away dead skin cells by manual abrasion, chemical exfoliants encourage cell turnover by use of certain chemical “active ingredients”. If you purchase salicylic acid skincare products in the USA, you will see the ingredient under the “active ingredients” section of the label. The label will also indicate the percentage of the ingredient used. This is because in larger dosages, it can be classified as a drug.

As well as excess oiliness, the abnormal sticking together of skin cells is a cause of acne. This results in clogged pores and the formation of blackheads, cysts, nodules, the works. As a desmolytic agent, salicylic acid loosens the cohesion between epidermal skin cells, leading to the sloughing away of dead skin cells. The dissolving of this “glue” between skin cells helps to prevent blockages within the follicle.

Can it help clear cystic acne?

It is worth noting that although salicylic acid skincare can help to prevent the formation of acne cysts due to its pore-clearing benefits, it is not so effective at actually getting rid of cystic acne once formed. Rather, it is better for dealing with blackheads and whiteheads. If you want to know exactly how to deal with blackheads, read this post on how to get rid of blackheads.

To a certain extent, salicylic acid skincare can help calm the inflammation brought about by the blemish. However, those struggling with cystic acne or severe cases of acne would need alternative means of solving their skin issues. Take it from someone who knows: plain old salicylic acid skincare products won’t cut it.

And let’s not forget, salicylic acid is also an acid. Something is classed as acidic when it has a pH below 7. Which means it needs a low pH to be effective at exfoliation.

Bonus tip: because it encourages skin cell turnover, salicylic acid is also used in the treatment of conditions like dandruff and psoriasis.

Can salicylic acid help with anti-ageing?

Although AHAs like glycolic acid are more so renowned for their anti-ageing benefits, salicylic acid skincare products can also helpful in revealing younger, more radiant skin. This is due to its ability to remove the skin cells of the epidermis to uncover the younger skin beneath. The exfoliation process helps to diminish the look of fine lines and pigmentation.

Some will regard salicylic acid as collagen stimulating, and you could say that it is anti-ageing in this respect. There is however, an emerging school of thought that although acid exfoliants give an instant gratification effect, the overuse of such acids can have an unfavourable effect in the long term. The instant plumping and radiance of your skin is instead thought to be an increase in swelling of the epidermis. It is your skin’s response to a “wound”, rather than the promotion of new collagen. This may invariably lead to accelerated ageing, which is what we were trying to avoid in the first place.

In my previous article about travel skin care, I made the point about not exfoliating or overusing active ingredients before travel so as not to weaken the skin barrier. I do believe that the overuse of acids in skincare actually has the potential to impair skin barrier function. Removing this superficial protective layer could potentially overexpose skin to environmental aggressors and free radical damage. Click here for more information about free radical damage.

Some signs of over exfoliation include skin dehydration, redness and irritation, dry patches, skin tautness, increased sensitivity and acne flare ups.

Can everyone use salicylic acid?

If you are new to salicylic acid, I would recommend starting a couple of times per week. You can then build up your tolerance to more regular use. For those with extremely sensitive skin, you can always do a patch test first on your arm to see how your skin reacts.

There are varying percentages available on the market. If you have never used a product containing salicylic acid, you may wish to start at a lower dose. As your skin becomes acclimated to the ingredient, you may start increasing the percentage.

As I explain in this article about glycolic acid, salicylic acid has not been shown to induce the same level of sensitivity to the sun as glycolic acid. Read this post for more sun damage information and how to prevent sun damaged skin.

Because of its close relation to aspirin, salicylic acid is not an ingredient you want to be using during pregnancy. Use of aspirin during pregnancy has been linked to birth defects, miscarriage and other complications. So, to my pregnant ladies, put your acid exfoliants on hold for 9 months or so while you’re growing your little bubba.

How often should you use salicylic acid?

The frequency of use depends on a number of factors. How tolerant is your skin to the ingredient? How much do you feel you need to exfoliate? What is the state of your skin and prevalence of blackheads and blemishes? What is your skin type?

Some people are able to use 4% salicylic acid products twice a day with no issue while others limit their use to once a week. Some people may prefer a higher percentage, more potent leave-on exfoliant. Others may find that leave-on acids are too harsh on their skin and prefer a rinse-off formula.

During the period of time in which I had severe cystic acne lesions, I was desperately bombarding my skin with every anti-acne ingredient I could find. I did not understand why the condition of my acne was becoming worse and worse. It turns out, I am someone who benefits more from occasional use of salicylic acid rather than daily use. However, when I find my skin is more congested, I do like to ramp up my usage.

Is salicylic acid safe?

Salicylic acid is perfectly safe to use in OTC products. Applying excessive amounts of salicylic acid to the body can result in salicylate poisoning. I wouldn’t say this is something you really have to be concerned about under regular circumstances as toxicity from salicylic acid is extremely rare. Just as I have reiterated time and time again in my articles, the dose makes the poison. So as long as you’re not dousing yourself in the stuff and overdoing it, you should be fine.

I would also like to point out that because salicylic acid is closely related to aspirin, you will want to steer clear of this ingredient if you have an allergy to aspirin. 

As I always say, we are all individual. Everyone has their own specific dose that will suit them. There is no cookie cutter approach to anything. Whether it is diet, skin care, exercise, we all have individual needs. It is therefore critical to get to know your skin and your triggers and tailor your routine to your own needs.

What are the best salicylic acid products?

I typically use leave-on salicylic acid products with a 2% concentration. Salicylic acid is available in leave-on and rinse-off formulas. It can be used in place of, or after a toner as an “acid toning” step. You can get salicylic acid lotions, face mists, face washes, in spot treatments, moisturiser, and high strength peels.

In an upcoming article I will be doing a complete rundown of all the very best salicylic acid products on the market, for every skin type and need. You already know I have your back and I am working on that post. 😉 So keep your eyes peeled for that article because you don’t want to miss it.

Salicylic Acid Products I Am Loving

Clinique Clarifying Lotion – This is a classic leave-on exfoliant. I have used this for years and found it does not aggravate my skin and is gentle enough for daily use. Swipe on after cleanser and before moisturiser and you are good to go. You can also find the Clinique Clarifying Lotion on Amazon.

COSRX BHA Power Liquid – If you read my previous K-beauty skincare article, I introduced you to this line of skincare. The concentration of BHA in this product is 4% so it is a little more for the BHA aficionado. 

La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo – This hero product from La Roche Posay will keep blackheads and spots at bay. Other ingredients like zinc and niacinamide also help maintain a clear complexion. La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo on Amazon.

Paulas Choice 2% BHA Liquid – You cannot go wrong with this leave-on exfoliant. Swipe it on after your toner. It does not irritate skin and is gentle enough to be used daily. It contains no sensitising ingredients and has the optimal pH for maximum effectiveness. Highly recommend. 

Final Thoughts

Salicylic acid is a prominent skincare ingredient for good reason. It will help clarify sebaceous glands, keep blemishes at bay, encourage skin cell turnover and resolve enlarged pores.

I hope that this guide to salicylic acid skincare was informative and that it answered all the questions you had. If you have any other questions you would like answered, feel free to leave a comment below and I will be happy to get back to you. I may even just write a future article dedicated to your query.

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For more Skin Science Articles:

Complete Guide To Glycolic Acid for Glowing Skin

Everything You Need To Know About Vitamin C To Achieve Younger Skin

The Everything Guide to Hyaluronic Acid In Skincare

What does UV radiation actually do to your skin and why use SPF?

Do you use salicylic acid skincare on a regular basis? What is your favourite salicylic acid skincare product to use?

Wishing you boundless love, endless light, and life without limit,

Shannon xo

This post is not sponsored. All opinions are my own.

References:

Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, p.455.

Kornhauser, A., Wei, R., Yamaguchi, Y., Coelho, S., Kaidbey, K., Barton, C., Takahashi, K., Beer, J., Miller, S. and Hearing, V. (2009). The effects of topically applied glycolic acid and salicylic acid on ultraviolet radiation-induced erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation in human skin. Journal of Dermatological Science, 55(1), pp.10-17.